There's a beautiful house for sale just down the street D-Dot. I told you those skateboard ramps you use are too short to reach your higher kPa's.

Just got back from a long weekend vacation with my bride... First time I "drove" the Dragon was this past Sunday. Totally different experience. Actually got to look around for once....and, there was only a few dozen bikes around mostly parked.

I've been saying for a long time there is no need for speed (reckless) when tuning. You only ride in certain areas of the calibration unless you need to run from the Law. Even with a great tune you can't out run Motorola so why risk it? You may feel like a fool riding 30 MPH at 5000 RPM's but who cares what others think. It sounds like you are doing 100.

Only once did I have a LEO pull me over while tuning. He wasn't worried about my speed he was more curious if everything was OK. Once I gave him a tour of what I was doing he brought his Softail over so I could tune it for him. Neat LEO and now a riding friend. He also uses my ClutchWIZ on his County Police Bike.

Tune your "Sphere" box tables then blend left to right and up to down in the areas you don't ride. They will be close. First tunes should stay under 3000 RPM's and make short runs. On the third or fourth run work with the EGR to smooth the graph. Once that is done find an open hwy... take a passenger if you don't have our hills and valleys. 80 MPH... what's that?? You go 80 in the mountain country you had better be burning rice for fuel and have a fresh set of sticky's.


Oh yeah... still no Root Beer.

 

Hey fella's...I have an older tuning guide that I have been using to set up my calibration for V-tuning..In it it says to

Adjust the AFR table to 14.6
Set the Acceleration Enrichment Table to 0.00
Deceleration Enleanment Table to 0.00
Set the Closed Loop Bias
Set the Adaptive Knock Retard table to 0


My TTS is the latest model and in it's tuning guide it say's to

Change AFR table
Set Closed loop Bias tables for front and rear
Disable PE mode(set to 10000)

It say's nothing about the other items above so am I right to assume the guide I am using is old hat and I should reset and start again and only change the second 3 items as per it's manual...

Can I still use my last generated tune,reset the points other than the 3 above and continue with the V-tune process...

Hope this make sense...

Cheers...Sparra

 

Leave knock retard as it is but set your AE and DE to 0

 

I always zero out the knock retard myself. Thats a trick from Doc.

 

Just ran the TTS Updater and notice Mastertune 2, Datamaster 2 and HD006 Firmware Updater. Is there a difference in the newer version and should I run any new cals through them?

 

I have the stock TTS map for A/C & race exhaust on my 08 1200 nightster.
Everything is perfect except when I am at steady speeds.
Then it is lean. What is the best way to change this to a richer mix
when am holding the throttle at a steady rpm without affecting WOT or other
throttle positions?
Thanks,
Bok

 

Welcome to the forum!

What makes you believe it is lean?

Can you post your map and we'll take a look?

 

The dyno showed I was running lean at steady speeds. It is also generating more heat than before the tune. I am not wanting to take a test ride to generate a map at this time. Is there a way to do this by adjusting the map I now have loaded?

 

We can probably adjust the AFR's - what are the AFR's in the areas of concern?

Again, can you post or send me the map showing the AFR's that's in your bike now and maybe I can make the adjustments for you. Then, all you'll need to do is load the adjusted map into your bike.

 

How do you post the maps in here??? When I look at the EGR there are heaps that show up as under 60kpa and from what I understand they need to be above 60kpa but I am not sure how to adjust them...

Cheers...Sparra