Break in period ... 500mile(800)km???
#1
Break in period ... 500mile(800)km???
Break in period ... the manual says 500mile(800)km.. then you can ride the bike any way you like?>
then it mentions oil change at 1000 miles (1600km)... I did the vary speeds no lucking yada yada... so do most of you ride normal ager the 500 mile break in period?
thanx
then it mentions oil change at 1000 miles (1600km)... I did the vary speeds no lucking yada yada... so do most of you ride normal ager the 500 mile break in period?
thanx
#2
I use this method from s&s
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/tec...-sands-engine/
NOTE: S & S Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance. Octane boosting gasoline additives may be necessary with marginal gasoline.
CAUTION: Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock ("ping," "rattle," etc.) by opening throttle.
CAUTION: If engine is run with foreign material in the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank is not covered under the S&S warranty.Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or replace oil lines before installing engine in frame.
Engine Break-In Procedure
Note: S&S engines are designed for high performance and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S warranty.
A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.
B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.
C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.
E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.
F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.
CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.
G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.
H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.
I. Have Fun!
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/tec...-sands-engine/
NOTE: S & S Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance. Octane boosting gasoline additives may be necessary with marginal gasoline.
CAUTION: Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock ("ping," "rattle," etc.) by opening throttle.
CAUTION: If engine is run with foreign material in the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank is not covered under the S&S warranty.Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or replace oil lines before installing engine in frame.
Engine Break-In Procedure
Note: S&S engines are designed for high performance and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S warranty.
A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist.
B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch.
C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150°) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems.
D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10°). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don't be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process.
E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles.
F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles.
CAUTION: Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly.
G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation.
H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.
I. Have Fun!
#3
#4
And, unless your brand new bike has 0.0 miles on the odo, it's too late for the heat cycles anyway.
#6
I dont think anyone knows the answer to any breakin period for any vehicle. I follow forums on everything I ride and drive and have been for years. Cars, Trucks, ATVs and Sport bikes and Harleys. Its always the same dilemma. My conclusion....Follow the manual and then just ride it like you would. I have been using synthetic oil in everyhting I have owned since 1991 with norhing but impressive results. Nothing I have owned has burned or leaked oil or had any engine issue ever. Thats my story and I am sticking to it!
#7
This is my second new big twin. Did this one the same as the first one. Took it real easy the first 100 miles. No highway only city traffic. After 100 started riding it to work almost daily. Kept it "mostly" under 3k and 65 until 500. Then rode it a little harder. 3200 or so for shifting and started hitting 6th. Changed out all three oils to syn at 900. Oil looked good and not a lot of metal shavings in the main oil.
Now... Hit it and rip it...
Now... Hit it and rip it...
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#8
#9
#10
That's what every harkey rider told me and thats what I'm doing with mine. Ride it like you stole from mile 1.