2014 Low Rider
#7171
I went out for a short ride tonight, my first ride of the season on temps above 80 degrees. At one point I glance down and I see a solid red light on the speedo. It's the light for the security system. I pull over, shut the bike off, wait a minute, fire it up - light is still on. I feel it's safe to ride the 6 miles home, so I do. A quick check online, that light means one of the lights on the bike is malfunctioning. I determine the rear brake light is on bright even when no brake lever/pedal is pressed. More digging. I check the DTC codes, I have a B2223, which indicates the rear brake has stayed on for more than 2 minutes.
Dug into the factory service manual next, ended up at the section called "Running Lamp Diagnostics." Find the rear brake light switch by the rear master cylinder, remove a green wire - now brake light goes out. Survey says: Replace the rear brake light switch. It's about $8. Tomorrow I'll see if I can find one locally.
I literally just posted a YouTube video last week with my 30,000 mile review, and I thought "wouldn't it by ironic if something broke next week. LOL. Well, these are the kinds of problems I can deal with.
Here's my vid if anyone's interested...
https://youtu.be/-X-3UO8_BtE
Dug into the factory service manual next, ended up at the section called "Running Lamp Diagnostics." Find the rear brake light switch by the rear master cylinder, remove a green wire - now brake light goes out. Survey says: Replace the rear brake light switch. It's about $8. Tomorrow I'll see if I can find one locally.
I literally just posted a YouTube video last week with my 30,000 mile review, and I thought "wouldn't it by ironic if something broke next week. LOL. Well, these are the kinds of problems I can deal with.
Here's my vid if anyone's interested...
https://youtu.be/-X-3UO8_BtE
#7172
I went out for a short ride tonight, my first ride of the season on temps above 80 degrees. At one point I glance down and I see a solid red light on the speedo. It's the light for the security system. I pull over, shut the bike off, wait a minute, fire it up - light is still on. I feel it's safe to ride the 6 miles home, so I do. A quick check online, that light means one of the lights on the bike is malfunctioning. I determine the rear brake light is on bright even when no brake lever/pedal is pressed. More digging. I check the DTC codes, I have a B2223, which indicates the rear brake has stayed on for more than 2 minutes.
Dug into the factory service manual next, ended up at the section called "Running Lamp Diagnostics." Find the rear brake light switch by the rear master cylinder, remove a green wire - now brake light goes out. Survey says: Replace the rear brake light switch. It's about $8. Tomorrow I'll see if I can find one locally.
I literally just posted a YouTube video last week with my 30,000 mile review, and I thought "wouldn't it by ironic if something broke next week. LOL. Well, these are the kinds of problems I can deal with.
Here's my vid if anyone's interested...
https://youtu.be/-X-3UO8_BtE
Dug into the factory service manual next, ended up at the section called "Running Lamp Diagnostics." Find the rear brake light switch by the rear master cylinder, remove a green wire - now brake light goes out. Survey says: Replace the rear brake light switch. It's about $8. Tomorrow I'll see if I can find one locally.
I literally just posted a YouTube video last week with my 30,000 mile review, and I thought "wouldn't it by ironic if something broke next week. LOL. Well, these are the kinds of problems I can deal with.
Here's my vid if anyone's interested...
https://youtu.be/-X-3UO8_BtE
The following users liked this post:
Graham UK (04-29-2021)
#7173
They used to have the schedule up on the Harley website but it has been missing for the past year or 2. I got an email from a local dealer they were having the truck coming. I would suggest checking the events page at your local dealers and maybe even sign up for e-mails from them so you can be notified when a demo event is coming.
#7174
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Leicestershire, United Kingdom
Posts: 391
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I went out for a short ride tonight, my first ride of the season on temps above 80 degrees. At one point I glance down and I see a solid red light on the speedo. It's the light for the security system. I pull over, shut the bike off, wait a minute, fire it up - light is still on. I feel it's safe to ride the 6 miles home, so I do. A quick check online, that light means one of the lights on the bike is malfunctioning. I determine the rear brake light is on bright even when no brake lever/pedal is pressed. More digging. I check the DTC codes, I have a B2223, which indicates the rear brake has stayed on for more than 2 minutes.
Dug into the factory service manual next, ended up at the section called "Running Lamp Diagnostics." Find the rear brake light switch by the rear master cylinder, remove a green wire - now brake light goes out. Survey says: Replace the rear brake light switch. It's about $8. Tomorrow I'll see if I can find one locally.
Dug into the factory service manual next, ended up at the section called "Running Lamp Diagnostics." Find the rear brake light switch by the rear master cylinder, remove a green wire - now brake light goes out. Survey says: Replace the rear brake light switch. It's about $8. Tomorrow I'll see if I can find one locally.
#7175
This is good to know. Hope to not experience it but if I do at least I will know what is going on.
The following users liked this post:
Graham UK (04-30-2021)
#7176
There are a couple things it could be, easiest thing is the brake light switch. If that doesn't work you may need to check the plunger coming out of the master cylinder. Has your brake fluid been flushed every few years? I had never flushed mine and it ended up getting so gunked up the plunger wasn't fully retracting out of the master cylinder. When that plunger comes out as you let off the brake lever it pushes in the brake switch and turns off the brake light. I ended up rebuilding the master cylinder and cleaning all that gunk out, flushed the brake system. All good to go using the factory brake switch still.
Thanks for the tips. I was fortunate with this one, easy to diag, the dealer had the parts, and the install was also easy.
#7177
I replaced the switch today, problem solved. Switch and 2 washers, $12. Despite what some are saying on YouTube, you can't swap this switch without introducing air into the line. Will the rear brake still work? Possibly, but not as well as it could. Mine was going down further than it used to. I bled mine until there was no air. Since it was wet out, I took it down the road and engaged the rear ABS about 10-15 times. Bled again and more air came out. Now the pedal was nice and firm. I think it's all good now.
Thanks for the tips. I was fortunate with this one, easy to diag, the dealer had the parts, and the install was also easy.
Thanks for the tips. I was fortunate with this one, easy to diag, the dealer had the parts, and the install was also easy.
#7179
Had a lovely ride today. I get home and go to clean out the DK Customs catch can like I have done many times since getting it only to find the catch can gone! Somewhere on my ride today the damn thing somehow came off. So I went to order a replacement one thinking it would be $25-30. Wrong. With shipping it came out to $80!
#7180
Red light came on my dash yesterday just as I was pulling out to ride to Maggie Valley. Pushed the lever forward and it went out. So mine is sticking too. Probably never had the fluid flushed. BTW, anyone have suggestions on improved brake pads? Or does anyone know the edge code of the factory pads?