Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
mine were the same way when i had my mids....try adjusting the rod that connects to the master cylinder...if you are in doubt of the fluid, just top it off. or you could drain the system refill and bleed....
Thanks. It wasn't always like that, that's why I'm concerned. I am going to pull off the caliper and really get a look at the pads to make sure they are really ok. With 8k miles, I can't imagine they're done already. If they check out I will probably take it in. I'm new to wrenching and I feel I could drain and bleed myself, but I know the dealer can do it much faster than I will be able to and I want to ride LOL. Then there is the experience part. I want to get the experience of doing it... awwww damn I don't know what to do
Thanks. It wasn't always like that, that's why I'm concerned. I am going to pull off the caliper and really get a look at the pads to make sure they are really ok. With 8k miles, I can't imagine they're done already. If they check out I will probably take it in. I'm new to wrenching and I feel I could drain and bleed myself, but I know the dealer can do it much faster than I will be able to and I want to ride LOL. Then there is the experience part. I want to get the experience of doing it... awwww damn I don't know what to do
Twospot~ Does your bike have ABS? If not, then bleeding the rear brake should be straight forward. You can remove the rear caliper from the mount, but you don't need to disconnect it from the brake fluid line.
Locate the rear master cylinder (M/C). Have a new bottle of DOT 4 fluid on hand. You can get a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight for cheap.
Check your pads for thickness/taper. In fact, check your front pads too. 8,000 miles isn't very good "pad life" but it isn't unheard of either. I get about 12,000 miles out of pads on my HD. (I get 35,000 miles out of the pads on my Triumph.) Go figure.
You might find an instructional video on yootoob regarding bleeding HD brakes.
Your brake systems are supposed to be "closed" systems. The only way fluid should lower in the M/C, should be due to wearing of the pads. Pads wear making the pistons move farther out, the fluid displaces that volume, the M/C moves fluid to replace it.
You were among the first to get a current gen LR. You never know what HD might do now that the Switchback is getting cut from the lineup.
The way they are moving with the S line and current trends I wouldn't be 1 bit surprised if they came out with a Dyna bagger sporting the t-sport fairing. More awesome but less likely would be the fxrt...
Twospot~ Does your bike have ABS? If not, then bleeding the rear brake should be straight forward. You can remove the rear caliper from the mount, but you don't need to disconnect it from the brake fluid line.
Locate the rear master cylinder (M/C). Have a new bottle of DOT 4 fluid on hand. You can get a vacuum pump from Harbor Freight for cheap.
Check your pads for thickness/taper. In fact, check your front pads too. 8,000 miles isn't very good "pad life" but it isn't unheard of either. I get about 12,000 miles out of pads on my HD. (I get 35,000 miles out of the pads on my Triumph.) Go figure.
You might find an instructional video on yootoob regarding bleeding HD brakes.
Your brake systems are supposed to be "closed" systems. The only way fluid should lower in the M/C, should be due to wearing of the pads. Pads wear making the pistons move farther out, the fluid displaces that volume, the M/C moves fluid to replace it.
Thanks Norty. No ABS. Maybe I'll give it a shot. I'm definitely going to pull the caliper off to check the pads.
Not taking into account proper braking technique here (meaning front and rear braking together) Should I be able to stop the bike in normal conditions with the rear alone? No Norty I do not do this LOL, I am just trying to gauge what level of an issue I have in the rear
I will introduce myself anyways I got '15 low rider, got about 1000 miles on it, still being easy on it Currently in maryland, but moving to central PA this summer.. It's currently being modified for higher handlebar, waiting for leatherpros saddlebag!
I love the bike..gets my nod after ride.. Cant wait to get customizing completed which will make it even better..
I did have moments where I had second thoughts about getting roadglide mainly for its touring capacity..It was the only other harley I would have considered..but after test riding a roadglide, I just realized how much a better bike a dyna is... You can make a dyna touring worthy easily with some bucks...but making a roadglide ride like a dyna... well to me it seemed like an impossible task...and LR is the best of all dyna!
Dyna seems to be a unique bike, a genuine harley model, with no other metric models that can replace or compete with... all other harley models have strong metric alternatives at cheaper price...but not dyna..which is another thing i like about it
Should I be able to stop the bike in normal conditions with the rear alone? No Norty I do not do this LOL, I am just trying to gauge what level of an issue I have in the rear
Certainly, you can stop the bike, by using the rear brake only, but it'll take a longer time and require more distance to do so.
A brake should work the same, whether it has 100% pad material....or 5% pad material. As long as you have 100% pad/rotor contact, you should be good to go. Er, I mean, STOP!
04-28-2016, 07:54 AM
I got '15 low rider, got about 1000 miles on it, still being easy on it
