Works Shocks
#2
It's always good to have some extra hands around.
#3
It is imperative that you make sure the new shocks are straight - don't assume that when you pull your old ones off that your new ones will be inline between the top & bottom bolts. If they are not perfectly straight, you risk the chance of it binding or creating an oil leak.
Here are the instructions I got with my JRI shocks
All models;
a. Remove Present Shock Absorbers.
b. The first steps is;
c. Measure & correct the swing arm and frame if it is out of alignment commonly found on almost all Harley Davidsons.
d. Thread in an appropriate 1⁄2” X 13” bolt into your bottom shock mount (2). Place the straight edge or caliper onto the bottom bolt, using that bolt A) & bottom mounting bung (2) as the governing reference point and not the top mount/bolt (1). The top end eye & cylinder of the shock is stationary and the shaft and the piston must move exactly true inside the seal head bushing and cylinder. There is no room for error.
e. Rotate the straight edge or caliper around the bolt shaft until the edge is in line with the top mounting bung (A) and if there is a space (B) it must be filled exactly for your shock shaft & piston to properly move up and down with the swing arm/tire.
f. Install the sleeve (converts metric to SAE if needed) in the bottom eye (#2) than install the 1⁄2”x 13 x 2 1⁄2” bolt and washer through the outside eye
than affix shock and bolt to the swing arm. Snug using your washer and 1⁄2”x 13 nut. No washer (spacers) should be necessary unless the swing arm and frame is out of alignment commonly found on almost all Harley Davidsons or clearance problems are caused by aftermarket accessories.
g. Rotate shock upwards so the top bolt mounting hole in the frame aligns with the cylinder head bolt hole.
h. Look from the rear forward at the space (if any) between the frame and the cylinder head (#1).
i. Add the appropriate amount of space
j. Install the sleeve (converts metric to SAE) in the bottom eye
(#2) than install the 1⁄2”x 13 x 2 1⁄2” bolt and washer through the outside eye than affix shock and bolt to the swing arm. Snug using your washer and 1⁄2”x 13 nut. No washer (spacers) should be necessary unless the swing arm and frame is out of alignment commonly found in 1986 ~ 2008 FLT’s or clearance problems are caused by aftermarket accessories.
k. Rotate shock upwards so the top bolt mounting hole in the frame aligns with the cylinder head bolt hole.
l. Look from the rear forward at the space (if any) between the frame and the cylinder head (#1).
m. Add the appropriate amount of spacer(s) to shim the shock to eliminate the gap if needed.
Caution! Under no circumstances ever tighten the mounting bolt to close the gap.
Here are the instructions I got with my JRI shocks
All models;
a. Remove Present Shock Absorbers.
b. The first steps is;
c. Measure & correct the swing arm and frame if it is out of alignment commonly found on almost all Harley Davidsons.
d. Thread in an appropriate 1⁄2” X 13” bolt into your bottom shock mount (2). Place the straight edge or caliper onto the bottom bolt, using that bolt A) & bottom mounting bung (2) as the governing reference point and not the top mount/bolt (1). The top end eye & cylinder of the shock is stationary and the shaft and the piston must move exactly true inside the seal head bushing and cylinder. There is no room for error.
e. Rotate the straight edge or caliper around the bolt shaft until the edge is in line with the top mounting bung (A) and if there is a space (B) it must be filled exactly for your shock shaft & piston to properly move up and down with the swing arm/tire.
f. Install the sleeve (converts metric to SAE if needed) in the bottom eye (#2) than install the 1⁄2”x 13 x 2 1⁄2” bolt and washer through the outside eye
than affix shock and bolt to the swing arm. Snug using your washer and 1⁄2”x 13 nut. No washer (spacers) should be necessary unless the swing arm and frame is out of alignment commonly found on almost all Harley Davidsons or clearance problems are caused by aftermarket accessories.
g. Rotate shock upwards so the top bolt mounting hole in the frame aligns with the cylinder head bolt hole.
h. Look from the rear forward at the space (if any) between the frame and the cylinder head (#1).
i. Add the appropriate amount of space
j. Install the sleeve (converts metric to SAE) in the bottom eye
(#2) than install the 1⁄2”x 13 x 2 1⁄2” bolt and washer through the outside eye than affix shock and bolt to the swing arm. Snug using your washer and 1⁄2”x 13 nut. No washer (spacers) should be necessary unless the swing arm and frame is out of alignment commonly found in 1986 ~ 2008 FLT’s or clearance problems are caused by aftermarket accessories.
k. Rotate shock upwards so the top bolt mounting hole in the frame aligns with the cylinder head bolt hole.
l. Look from the rear forward at the space (if any) between the frame and the cylinder head (#1).
m. Add the appropriate amount of spacer(s) to shim the shock to eliminate the gap if needed.
Caution! Under no circumstances ever tighten the mounting bolt to close the gap.
#5
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here are a couple videos I did for practice...........
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Last edited by mud; 03-01-2014 at 09:08 PM.
#6
My works streettrackers came with instructions, I did remember that when installing to leave .015 clearance on the side of the bushings , unlike Harley rubber bushings where they are just squeezed tight these shocks need a little play to alow for seal and stem alignment. My shocks lined up sweet.
The stock settings were way too hard and backed it off 3/8 of an inch.
Plenty of adjustment on these.
I would buy them again.
I've had mine installed since 2010 and they rock.
As with all critical fasteners use the blue loctite.
The stock settings were way too hard and backed it off 3/8 of an inch.
Plenty of adjustment on these.
I would buy them again.
I've had mine installed since 2010 and they rock.
As with all critical fasteners use the blue loctite.
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rockon
Dyna Glide Models
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11-06-2008 09:24 AM