I am running the Burly Slammers (10.5") and really like them. Not a crazy harsh ride as others would have you believe, and don't scrape much unless I'm really getting after it in a corner. I don't feel the need to over do it in corners, I tend to give each corner the speed in which it deserves. And that doesn't mean I'm dicking the dog either. I have used lowering blocks in the past and didn't like them as much as a full lowering shock. I don't do much 2-up riding, but have my OEM shocks and a FatBob seat in the event that I do.

If your looking for comfort, you may wanna re-think the bare bones seat. lol Check out C&C's solo seats. I love mine. Comfortable and it is low profile.

 

Has anyone here attempted what I am talking about? Using 11" or 11.5" PS shocks and lowering blocks? Want a lowered look while maintaining some suspension travel. Not worried about leg position or cornerability.

Want ride comfort, performance and 2up option...combined with a lowered look.

 

An 11" shock AND lowering blocks will put you too low. Your tire will rub everything under your fender, and you'll never make it over a curb.
My opinion, you should try the blocks first. They are like 50 bucks. See if you even like having the bike that low, and test the ride quality. If you aren't impressed, you can go from there.
Like I said before tho, I ran blocks for nearly 20k. No problems.

 

burly slammers and bare bones seat here, cant "really" notice the diff in shocks with stock seat, BUT,,,,,,, the bare bones seat is absolutely horrible after 2hrs! the seat is a 60/60. 60miles or 60minutes whatever comes first. I can ride all day with a 15min break every 1-11/2 hrs. my oppinion on the blocks are: they look ok, ride a little stiffer than shorter shocks. because the angle of the shock is changed from the Ideal location not allowing them to travel correctly. even that is rarely noticed unless you or your passenger is heavy or you hit a sharp bump. The shorter shocks are the same but maybe 1-5 percent better on ride. Both more harsh than stock.
The seat, I run my bare bones almost all the time Unless im using my bike for distance. although I did about 600 miles in one day last summer and ended up putting my t shirt in my pants for more cushion for the last few hrs.

sorry for my scatter brained post. final thought: lowered shocks and a variety of seats. no offense to others but I think the blocks are 1/2 assed. Although for 50$ you can try it either upgrade to shocks or go back to stock and sell the blocks for 30$

 

I tried to get the best of both worlds and went the DIY air ride route.
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...80622308172612

http://custombaggerforum.com/forum/s...-Rear-Air-Ride

 

Still trying to get a compromise between a lowered look and a good ride....so let me throw this one out at ya'll:

Lowered PS 11".....or maybe even a Burley Slammer kit if (I want to get really drastic) and then a springer seat! Huh!!!! Would that not do the trick?
Then...whenever the wifey wants to take a trip...just pop the stock springs back on.

Thoughts?

 

Sounds like a plan brother! That will do the trick. I'd change out shocks if I plan to have a passenger. Not usual for me to have a passenger, but I think I am making progress on getting the wife to ride again. Got a used Fat Bob OEM seat just in case one day she takes up the saddle with me...

 

A spring seat does a lot for the harsh bumps. I still have one, but don't use it now that I have good quality 13" shocks.

Lowering blocks, as pointed out, change the angle of the shock. Keep in mind that shock travel and suspension travel are two different things. With blocks installed, suspension travel is still reduced even though the shock travel stays the same. In other words, you will bottom out earlier with lowering blocks even if you still have 12" shocks. (This doesn't mean you will bottom out, just that bottoming out would come earlier with lowering blocks.)

The best method for lowering your bike is to use shorter shocks. The best method to retain comfort is to buy good quality shocks. With this combination, you shouldn't have to swap shocks for two-up riding.

The PS 430 shocks are medium quality while the 444 is a good shock for your purpose. Ohlins, JRI, Bitubo, Works Performance, and RaceTech make high quality shocks. They'll cost more, but perform much better than a $200 pair of shocks.

 

Agreed ... love my slamer kit front and rear. For the seat even lower ... Lepera Bare Bones

I love the look and the ride is fine. I dont ride 2up ... thats why I cut the fender and struts.

 

If you really wanna be badass...

How about 10" ridgid struts and a spring seat when solo'ing it?