How do I remove my rear wheel?
#3
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I could not believe in the 21st Century how awkward removing the rear wheel on a Dynaglide was, I was astounded by the arseing about we had to go through and this was in a professional tyre bay with all the kit and equipment to hand and a guy who does this for a living. I had a Suzuki GT500 in 1977 and the first puncture I had on the back wheel, took less than 5 minutes to get the wheel off and start the repair. Fast forward to 2007 30 years later on my 06 35th Anniversary Superglide and we had wooden wedges under frame, a paddock stand, a trolley jack, had to take the slip on exhaust, upper and lower belt guards off then back the wheel forward and slip the belt off then try and drift the spindle out with a Teflon mallet, that was a job in itself. nearly 2 hours it took us to change the tyre. This guy does Honda, Yamaha, Suzuki, Kawasaki sportsbikes all day long and he told me he never wants to see a Harley again. How the hell you guy's get on in rural America with a flat back tyre on your Harley I do not know maybe that's why pick up trucks are so popular in the USA.
#4
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1 Place bike on a bike jack
2 Remove the Debris deflector
3 Remove retaining rinng, axle nut, and washer
4 Loosen but don't remove the upper mounting bolts on your shocks
5 Remove the lower mounting bolts on the shocks
6 The rear wheel and fork will lower(I used a bungee cord to hold the shocks up, kinda strapped from lower bolt holes and over the fender. Just watch your paint).
7 Remove your belt gaurd, then I used a flat head screw driver to carefull pry the brake pads apart it will not look like it moves much if any at all
8 Remove the axle (If this is the first time you remove the axle it may be tough). I used a peice of wood and a mall. Be cafeful not to damage the end of you shaft if you break the the little bossed ring where the retaining pin goes you will have to replace the axle). Just remember when you put it back on to use some anti-seize lubricant on it.
9 take a look at the brake caliper and notice how it just slides onto the frame so that you know how to reinstall it. Slide the tire forward, romove the belt,and spacers, pay attention to your spacers there is a mark on the one on the right side of the tire that should go towards your brake assembly
10 getting your tire passed the brake assembly is a little trickey but you will figure it out, it isn't hard
11 while the tireis off the bike do not under any circumstances press the rear brake pedal, if you do you will be sorry, you will have to disassemble the rear brake caliper to push the pistons back in.
2 Remove the Debris deflector
3 Remove retaining rinng, axle nut, and washer
4 Loosen but don't remove the upper mounting bolts on your shocks
5 Remove the lower mounting bolts on the shocks
6 The rear wheel and fork will lower(I used a bungee cord to hold the shocks up, kinda strapped from lower bolt holes and over the fender. Just watch your paint).
7 Remove your belt gaurd, then I used a flat head screw driver to carefull pry the brake pads apart it will not look like it moves much if any at all
8 Remove the axle (If this is the first time you remove the axle it may be tough). I used a peice of wood and a mall. Be cafeful not to damage the end of you shaft if you break the the little bossed ring where the retaining pin goes you will have to replace the axle). Just remember when you put it back on to use some anti-seize lubricant on it.
9 take a look at the brake caliper and notice how it just slides onto the frame so that you know how to reinstall it. Slide the tire forward, romove the belt,and spacers, pay attention to your spacers there is a mark on the one on the right side of the tire that should go towards your brake assembly
10 getting your tire passed the brake assembly is a little trickey but you will figure it out, it isn't hard
11 while the tireis off the bike do not under any circumstances press the rear brake pedal, if you do you will be sorry, you will have to disassemble the rear brake caliper to push the pistons back in.
#5
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The only thing that was a little hard about it was getting the axle out, because the factory doesn't use any anti-seize lubricant on it.
Everything else was a breeze.
Not being a smart a$$, but I took some good advice from members of this forum and purchased a service manual for my 06 dyna a couple of days before I had to replace my back tire last week. It is worth its weight in gold. It was $63.
Everything else was a breeze.
Not being a smart a$$, but I took some good advice from members of this forum and purchased a service manual for my 06 dyna a couple of days before I had to replace my back tire last week. It is worth its weight in gold. It was $63.
#6
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Yep, that sums it up about right. I like to remove the brake caliper from the rotor though...it is easier to mess with if it is out of the way. It can be a hassle when trying to slide the rotor back in between the brake pads.
It is also easier to install the left side spacer at the same time the tire is being lifted into place. If you put the tire in place first, that spacer can be a real PITA because the pulled bolts get in the way.
The debris deflector does not have to be removed, but the upper belt guard must be.
It is also easier to install the left side spacer at the same time the tire is being lifted into place. If you put the tire in place first, that spacer can be a real PITA because the pulled bolts get in the way.
The debris deflector does not have to be removed, but the upper belt guard must be.
#7
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Marrix has it right. I did mine back in december and didn't have any difficulty at all. If you **** the bottom of the wheel to the right, it will clear the caliper without any problems. Like Matrix said, lube the axle shaft with anti-sieze before assembly ,torque the axle nut no more than 65ft/lbs and you're good to go.
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RenaissanceMan
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09-13-2008 08:39 PM