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Fork oil change what a pain

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  #11  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:00 PM
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Dumb question, my manual says I have to basically pull apart the front end and pour the old oil out of the forks.

Can i just remove the caps and use one of those squidgy hand bulb fluid sucky thingamabobs instead?
 
  #12  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Krazy8s
Dumb question, my manual says I have to basically pull apart the front end and pour the old oil out of the forks.

Can i just remove the caps and use one of those squidgy hand bulb fluid sucky thingamabobs instead?
At the very least you'd want a a pump like the one in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post9499603
 
  #13  
Old 08-05-2013, 01:59 PM
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If you don't take the fork apart to get all the fluid out and clean the inside you are leaving stuff inside of the fork you want to remove.
It only takes a few more minutes to do it.
It really all depends on how long the oil has been in the forks and how long it has been since they were cleaned.
I do it every time. You would be surprised of how much junk is in there.
 
  #14  
Old 08-05-2013, 06:20 PM
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Im not seeing any drain screw on the forks to drain the old oil out. Am I missing something? Or do I have to remove the forks? I know my eye sight aint what it used to be.
 

Last edited by rsking45; 08-05-2013 at 06:25 PM.
  #15  
Old 08-05-2013, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rsking45
Im not seeing any drain screw on the forks to drain the old oil out. Am I missing something? Or do I have to remove the forks? I know my eye sight aint what it used to be.
There aint one anymore.

To get the oil out you have to remove the fork and pour the oil out. Trying anything else, like sucking out the oil, just leaves the worst of the **** in the bottom of the fork.
 
  #16  
Old 08-05-2013, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by twothousandfour-supr-glide
It would have been easier if I had a thin wall socket but the only 35mm socket I had was a thick wall impact.
That being said it was worth it, the test ride was smooth, brake dive was gone, and much less bounce in the turns.
you know a regular 12" crescent wrench works well on that bolt, but I'm glad it worked out!
 
  #17  
Old 08-05-2013, 06:50 PM
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For the older Dynas that you have a drain plug in the bottom of the fork it's a real easy job. A couple of tricks, 1) loosen the top fork bolt, it takes some pressure off the fork cap. 2) I bought from JP Cycles a fork cap with a allen head screw in the cap can be removed to put in the new oil with removing the whole fork cap. No caps flying off, no spring compressing, just remove the screw and put in the oil. I also replaced my stock springs with Progressive springs and use 10w Bel Ray fork oil.
 
  #18  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:39 PM
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Can be a bitch for sure...
Best advice I have seen here was getting up above the fork and using your body weight to press down evenly on the fork cap (after pre-marking as mentioned above). an hour into the reassembly, I can across the thread. 5 minutes later was one
Mud's fork service thread saved me an a$$load of time and frustration. An hour into the reassembly, I came across the thread, and 5 minutes later was done
 
  #19  
Old 08-05-2013, 07:51 PM
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I'm headed towards this shortly since I installed a new set of Ricors on the rear now the short comings of the front end are even more pronounced even though over all the ride did improve. It is obvious the forks are way too stiff and not very compliant. My thought process was to install a set of Intimitators. I would appreciate some input on whether I should also install some better fork springs like the Progressive's too.
Bob
 
  #20  
Old 08-06-2013, 12:48 PM
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Sounds like it would be smarter for me to get some progressive springs for the forks instead of just trying different oil to achive a better front end if I have to in though that just to replace the oil might as well do springs
 


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