Fxdwg 2010
I'm removing the trees to powder coat them.
Iwant to know the torque spec of the neck bolt when mounting back
and if i'm only removing the trees is in necessery to mess with the bearings in there ?

 

Get a shop manual. They are a cheap investment. The neck bearing on the bottom tree is a pain to remove from the stem. The stem is pressed into the tree itself.

 

I've just found one buts kinda weak :



STEERING HEAD 2.18


REMOVAL


1. Remove fork sides. See 2.17 FRONT FORK.



2. Remove the headlamp from lower fork bracket. See


8.9 HEADLAMP.

3. See Figure 2-89. Remove the fork stem cap (1). Remove



the fork stem nut and the handlebar with upper bracket

(4). Be careful not to pinch or kink control cables.

4. Remove the adjusting nut (5) and pull the fork stem and

bracket (12) out of the steering head. Remove the upper

dust shield (6) and bearing cone (7). Slide fork stem (12)

and bracket (13) from frame.


INSPECTION


1. Check upper and lower bearing races in steering head. If

they are pitted or grooved, replace the bearings and races

in sets.


2-58 2008 Dyna Service: Chassis

Replace both bearing assemblies even if one assembly

appeares to be good. Mismatched bearings can lead to

excessive wear and premature replacement. (00532b)



2. Check the roughness of the bearings by turning them in

the race. Replace bearings if they do not turn freely and

smoothly.


DISASSEMBLY

PART NUMBER TOOL NAME



HD-33416 UNIVERSAL DRIVER

STEERING HEAD BEARING RACE

REMOVER

HD-39301-A


1

2

3


sm02275


1. Remover (2 pieces)

2. Collet

3. Driver

Figure 2-90. Race Remover Tools


Steering Head Bearing Race Removal


1. See Figure 2-91. With the tapered side down, seat the



two-piece STEERING HEAD BEARING RACE

REMOVER (Part No. HD-39301-A) (1) on the upper

bearing race leaving a gap in the middle.

2. Install the collet (2) on the UNIVERSAL DRIVER (Part

No. HD-33416).

3. Insert the driver at the bottom of the steering head tube,

and while holding the remover tool on the race, center the

collet in the gap (3). Tap the driver to remove the upper

race.

4. Reverse the tool and repeat the procedure (4) to remove

the lower bearing race.


NOTE

If bearing cups are removed, the bearings cannot be reused.

They must be replaced. The lower bearing cone is not pressed

on fork stem and may be slipped off fork stem along with lower

dust shield.


1. See Figure 2-89. Insert the stem and bracket assembly



into the frame steering head and install the upper bearing

(7) and dust shield (6). Secure with the adjusting nut (5).

Tighten the adjusting nut until there is no noticeable shake

or freeplay between bearings and races. Fork stem must

turn freely from side to side.


NOTE

The washer under the fork stem nut is a special hardened

material. Never replace this washer with a common flat washer.

Doing so may allow the fork stem nut torque to loosen resulting

in loss of steering control.



2. Install upper bracket (4), hardened flat washer (2).


NOTE



• Original equipment fork stem nut has a blue coating. If a




new nut is being installed, the replacement nut will not

have a coating.



• Whenever the stem nut is loosened or removed, the




threads must be lubricated with anti-seize lubricant prior

to assembly and tightening.



3. Lubricate threads of fork stem nut (3) with a light coating

of anti-seize lubricant. Install stem nut and tighten securely.


4. Install the headlamp assembly. See 8.9 HEADLAMP.

5. Install fork sides. See 2.17 FRONT FORK.

6. Adjust steering head bearings. See 1.20 STEERING HEAD

BEARINGS.



7. Tighten fork stem nut to 70-80 ft-lbs (94.9-108.4 Nm).

8. Install the fork stem cap.


9. Align headlamp. See 1.23 HEADLAMP ALIGNMENT.












Thats all I got on the subject, they say the replace the bearings if theyre rough ... But what I wanna know is if I got to pull them out to remove the trees ?

 

+1 on getting the shop manual -

DYANA MODELS 2010 Harley Davidson service manual

part number 99481-10

If I understand what you are asking, when you remove the lower fork bracket (lower triple tree) the bearing cone will come with it. One of them at least. For me the second one fell out of the upper tree. I kept the bearing cones in a zip lock bag and reinstalled them later. They only had 2300 miles on them.

As for the Fork stem nut, this is torqued to 70-80 ft-lbs or 95-108.5 Nm ONLY after you have set the Fall Away. See manual for correct procedure or do a search here.

Please double check my numbers by getting the manual. Section 1.21 Steering Head Bearings page 1-41.

I used a plumb-bob tapped to the ceiling of my garage.

 

i got the part number 99481-08 should be the sae from 06-11 i think no ?

ADJUSTMENT

PART NUMBER TOOL NAME



HD-41494 HUBCAP REMOVER AND INSTALLER


Bearing Adjustment (Fall Away)


1. Support motorcycle in an upright position so the front end

is completely suspended and the vehicle is level.

2. Remove all accessory weight, such as a windshield, that

may influence the way the front end swings. If clutch cable

is routed so it pulls the front end one way or the other,

disconnect it.

3. Place a suitable marking material, such as masking tape,

over the fender tip.

4. Install a pointer so the base is stationary on the floor and

the pointer indicates the center of the fender. The front

end should be straight ahead, however the balance point

may be slightly off center.

5. Check steering head bearing tension.

a. Tap the fender on one side until the front end begins

to "fall-away" by itself. Label this point on the marking

material.

b. Repeat the previous step in the other direction.

c. Measure distance between marks.

6. The distance between the "fall-away" marks must be 2.0-

4.0 in (50.8-101.6 mm).


NOTES



• If distance measured is 2.0-4.0 in. (50.8-101.6 mm) no




bearing adjustment is needed.



• If distance measured is outside the range given, bearing




adjustment is needed.



7. See Figure 1-45. With HUBCAP REMOVER AND



INSTALLER (Part No. HD-41494) unscrew and remove

stem cap (3).

8. Loosen fork stem nut (5).

9. Loosen lower triple clamp pinch bolts.


1

2

6

3

5

4


sm02477


1. Star nut

2. Upper triple clamp

3. Stem cap

4. Hardened flat washer

5. Stem nut

6. Pinch bolt (2)

Figure 1-45. Steering Head Components



10. Tighten or loosen the star nut (1) until the measurement

is within limits.

a. If the distance is more than 4.0 in. (101.6 mm), turn

the adjuster nut counter clockwise to loosen.

b. If the distance is less than 2.0 in. (50.8 mm), turn the

adjuster nut clockwise to tighten.

11. Remove the stem nut and lightly lubricate the threads with

anti-seize lubricant.

12. Install stem nut and tighten to 70-80 ft-lbs (95-108.5 Nm).

13. Check fall-away. If it is 2.0-4.0 in. (50.8-101.6 mm), tighten

lower triple clamp pinch bolts to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5

Nm).

14. Repeat the "fall-away" procedure to be sure the adjustment

is correct.

15. Install and adjust clutch cable.

16. Test ride motorcycle.


LUBRICATION


Use SPECIAL PURPOSE GREASE (Part No. 99857-97) every

30,000 mile (48,280 km) service interval. For steering head


bearing lubrication, see 2.18 STEERING HEAD.




2008 Dyna





I'm might be too dumb to understand but you put the weight to take a measuring point on the fender when the bike is completely lifted right ? Then the 2 to 4 inch measurement is when you put the bike back on the ground ? or still lifted you ``tap`` to make it go all the way down

 

No worries. I didn't explain my pics that I posted. So I dropped the plumb-bob down and it should not touch the fender. Find center on your fender and mark with a sharpie and piece of tape. My pics are before sharpie mark. Oh ya the front end should be lifted. And follow the procedure from there.

PM me if you run into any issues.

 

Not youre fault i understand that step, in the manual they say to tap it after, thats where im kinda lost in the explanation, the 2 to 4 inch variation from start to when you tap youre fork under it goes all the way down ?