On my way to work this morning I got the dreaded "check engine" light. I only found 1 code on the ECM only ( P0051 ). Wiring looks ok to that O2 sensor. But I can't get the code to clear. I've played around and got the front O2 sensor to fault and clear. But not the back. I'm presently in the process of pulling the exhaust to replace the sensor. Just wondering if their is something else I might should have checked? The bike is a 2012 WG. Been running on Stage 1 for a few months.
Thanks for any replies.

 

Do you mean P0151, or are the codes for the newer bike different than my 07?

 

2012 Should still be under warranty, I would let the dealer check it out.

 

Guess the newer bikes are different. Code is definitely P0051. Google search says that this is the #1 O2 sensor ( rear ). Confirmed this by disconnecting the #2 O2 sensor ( front ) and got a P0031. I was able to clear the 0031 code just by reconnecting the sensor.

 

Ya just worried how that will fit in with the Stage 1. Dealer did the tune. But I did the exhaust and AC.

 

The only crappy part of the is that the dealer will keep the bike for three days, do nothing, tell him it's fixed, and it shows back up before he gets home.

If it really is lean the plugs will be REALLY clean or look like they have been burned clean. It could be an air leak in the intake or exhaust, a loose connection (less likely), or the sensor is failed (coated, fouled or coatings going away).

 

Try pulling the sensor out and cleaning the tip before you replace...sometimes a little carbon builds up clogs it.

 

double post edit

 

I couldn't get the sensor out without dropping the exhaust. Exhaust flanges appeared to be good and snug. Think ill go ahead and spring for new exhaust gaskets anyway.

Still think I should try cleaning the sensor and replacing? How much are those darn things?

 

Just another thought. Back when I used to do a lot of redneck stuff, if I had an engine that ran marginaly lean I would put a resistor across the 5V+ and the sense wire on the MAP sensor. This tells the ECM that the engine is pulling more vacuum than it really is. It then adds a little more fuel to compensate. I would use something call a decade box to dial in the resistor value but you could try a 10K ohm as a quick check. I'm guessing you have an air leak (read guess). This wouldn't cure your problem but it might "cover it up" to help you troubleshoot.