HD Quarter Fairing Project
#34
Yep, Norton's sprayed the inside. I already knicked it getting it back together, but it's an easy touch up with some Testors Black.
I've had them for awhile, but didn't want to go through disassembling the forks or cutting the back open and gluing it shut. I got the idea from another forum member, 128auto. I just swabbed the insides with soapy water, and pulled them up like a pair of too-small socks. I used a dry rag to help work them over the fender mounts because the outside got slippery, too.
I followed the service manual to remove the wheel...easy day. In addition to a regular set of tools, you'll need a bungee cord to suspend the caliper with once it's removed so you don't put strain on the brake line.
- Jack up the bike, but keep the front wheel on the ground.
- Break loose the axle nut, but do not remove it.
- Raise front wheel off the ground.
- Have bungee ready, remove the caliper nuts (12 point 10mm), and suspend the caliper with the bungee.
- Loosen (do not remove) the two axle pinch bolts.
- Remove the axle nut, and slide the axle out while supporting the wheel.
- Carefully pull the wheel out from between the forks and be ready to catch the spacer on the left (facing aft). I say "carefully" because you could ding the forks pretty easily with the rotor.
Putting it back on is basically the reverse, except for lining up the ABS speed sensor on the right (facing aft). If you don't have the service manual pictures to refer to, you'll definitely need to note the direction it faces before you pull the axle out, so you put it back on the right direction. Then you just rotate it until the little nub rests on the fork shoulder before you tighten down the axle nut.
I highly recommend getting the service manual, though. There are lots of warnings and notes in there that I wouldn't have considered, like don't touch the brake lever once the caliper is off, or you'll be in for a crap-load more work getting the pistons back in.
Last edited by SquidHead; 06-04-2013 at 06:51 PM. Reason: Credited 128auto for the jammer boot install idea.
#35
Close Ups of Clamps and Fork Brace
Here are some close ups of the quick release clamps and the RSD fork brace.
I think the lock being on top works better than underneath for getting the key in and rotated. Still a tight fit and I have to be careful no the scratch the paint.
The fork brace:
I think the lock being on top works better than underneath for getting the key in and rotated. Still a tight fit and I have to be careful no the scratch the paint.
The fork brace:
#36
Last Pics - Black vs. Brown
Last set of pics for this project. I threw my black Sick Saddle and battery bags on for comparison. I think I like the look better than my brown seats, but there's no beating the comfort of my Mustang saddle. Maybe something for down the road.
Brown:
Black:
Thanks for all the encouragement and suggestions along the way. It came together way faster than I planned.
Brown:
Black:
Thanks for all the encouragement and suggestions along the way. It came together way faster than I planned.
#37
#38
...And you have got to post up some pics of yours soon. I really want to see hold the gold turned out.
Last edited by SquidHead; 06-02-2013 at 01:53 PM. Reason: Reminder for pics from Danielc409
#40
Like the riding bell. Almost every wrecked bike I've seen has one!