crazy high idle then dies
#1
crazy high idle then dies
So my 2000 lowrider is having a crazy high idle with the choke on, at around 4000 rpms, then it dies as soon as the choke is turned off, regardless of how long it has been running. I did a handlebar swap a week ago and have had the problem ever since. Last year i plugged the vacuum line from the petcock and it ran fine, so I dont think that is part of the problem. Any suggestions? I dont want to go to a shop with a thousand "I thinks" and get ripped off. I tried adjusting the throttle cables loose and then tightening them, and did MINOR adjustments on the screw on the carb that adjusts the rich/lean mixture.
Thanks guys.
Respect,
Kevin
Thanks guys.
Respect,
Kevin
#3
You plugged the vacuum line from the petcock???
Unless you changed out the fuel petcock to a standard NON vacuum style your bike shouldnt even run at all. Put the vacuum line back on or swap the fuel valve to a Pingle valve.
If problem persists check cables, and clean jets. A fresh James brand carb to intake gasket is also recommended.
Unless you changed out the fuel petcock to a standard NON vacuum style your bike shouldnt even run at all. Put the vacuum line back on or swap the fuel valve to a Pingle valve.
If problem persists check cables, and clean jets. A fresh James brand carb to intake gasket is also recommended.
#4
I havent ridden it since it started doing this, I live in the country and do not want to get stranded. It does it also when the throttle is half way open. It will rev normally for a few two or so seconds then it will sputter and die. Not being very mechanically inclined I do not want to mess up more than already is.
#5
#6
Sounds like you have disturbed something, changed bars last week but plugged a line last year, did it have the same problem then? Usually when someone tinkers changing several things it gets more expensive having a technician try to figure out what needs to be done or undone. It's ok to tweak but when it doesn't correct a problem untweak it so it's back where it was. Good luck.
#7
Sounds like you have disturbed something, changed bars last week but plugged a line last year, did it have the same problem then? Usually when someone tinkers changing several things it gets more expensive having a technician try to figure out what needs to be done or undone. It's ok to tweak but when it doesn't correct a problem untweak it so it's back where it was. Good luck.
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#8
OK, then its gotta be the jets are clogged or the float needle is possibly partially clogged. Check the float needle to confirm it moves freely. Swab the brass seat with a q tip and carb cleaner until swab comes out clean.
#9
Will do. ill go do it now and let you know how it goes. Thanks for all the help and quick responses!
#10
Careful "tinkering" with everything or you could have more issues than just the intake leaking.
Any time you have to pull the choke out to get it to run after warm up it's the intake leaking. The choke compensates for the leak, poorly adjusting the air fuel ratio allowing it to run and fowl up the plugs.
You can also test for air leaks by lightly spraying carb cleaner at the intake from back and front. Don't get the spray heading back into the carb when doing this. Only spray the intake behind the carb. It will slow down the motor and even stall when a full dose of cleaner gets sucked into the air leak.
Replace the gaskets and seals and off you go.
Any time you have to pull the choke out to get it to run after warm up it's the intake leaking. The choke compensates for the leak, poorly adjusting the air fuel ratio allowing it to run and fowl up the plugs.
You can also test for air leaks by lightly spraying carb cleaner at the intake from back and front. Don't get the spray heading back into the carb when doing this. Only spray the intake behind the carb. It will slow down the motor and even stall when a full dose of cleaner gets sucked into the air leak.
Replace the gaskets and seals and off you go.
Last edited by JohnnyC; 12-11-2012 at 11:08 AM.