Question:

Can I remove/replace the IAC without having to remove the entire Induction Module?

Manual says Induction Module needs to come off, but it looks like I may be able to get the bugger out without removing the module. [For example I got the injectors out/in without removing the module].

Anyone know? 2006 dyna.

Thanks

 

You have to remove or lift the gas tank and loosen the throttle cables, the throttle cables bracket sits on top of the IAC, been there done that.

 

Haha thanks. Sounds like I can get to it from above, without unbolting the whole module. Thanks.

 

The rear torx screw is hard to remove without lifting the tank, other than that piece of cake. I didn't loosen the throttle cables but I highly recommend, much easier.

 

So I replaced both the IAC and the TPS in one session. I installed both (with the main fuse pulled) and then after installation I re-initialized the TMAX with a 3x30-second on/off cycle.

When I went to start the bike for the first time to run an IAC-stop auto-calibration all hell broke loose. There were repeating huge "smacking" sounds coming from the air-cleaner area. (IAC going nuts?) The engine was racing (while cold). It stalled twice. It would not hold a proper idle, even as the IAC-auto process was running. I had to stop the madness and shut the engine down. I was worried at this point.

After shutdown I did a quick 7 on/off cycles. Then I did the 3x30-second TMAX initialization. Then I let the bike cool down. (Put away my tools).

When the bike was cool again I gave it a second try.... it worked, and sounded smooth. I think I made progress in the idle issue. I ran IAC-auto and it tracked well. My adjusted IAC stops are now in the 20 range.

So... I think even if you are running a T-Max you may need to do the 7 on/off quick cycles to get the HD ecm initialized after swapping these components. I don't know for sure, but it worked for me. I am also considering myself lucky that my new IAC still works after that first session. It sounded like it was trying to self-destruct.

Note:
As Alex states, getting a bit into the torx bolts next to the cylinder heads is tricky. I had a few extra torx bits of different lengths which I held in place with fingers and turned with a 1/4" wrench. Good news is that both parts come with new bolts so if you bugger the bolts on the way out, you have a fresh set to install with.

 

How did you get the rear torx screw???

i lifted the tank. still cant get a torx t20 to get in there straight ,,, upper motor mount in the way
felling defeated

cant find a t-20 ball head in torx anywhere would prefer t handle

 

stripped it.

 

I had to remove the upper stabilizer to fit a 1/4 drive ratchet w torx. Without removing the stabilizer u may strip it. I did