That's pretty much what I was thinking, I will wait to get the pv so I can log data and take it from there. Thanks foxster.

Quick question, are there any other reasons than the ones we spoke of to advance or decrease the timing?

 

Umm...

To match the fuel available. If you only have available, or choose to use, lower octane fuel then the timing will need to be later. If you always run higher octane, say 99, then you want more timing.

Temperature. Engines tend to ping a bit more in the summer.

Altitude. If you set up the bike in Colorado and move to San Francisco then the bike will tend to ping more.

To extend the life of the engine. Running the risk of pinging is very bad for an engine in the long term. Pinging puts a lot of strain on the engine.

Edit...Also you need to change the timing for certain cams. For instance, SE204 cams have 8° of timing built into them that you have to adjust for in the timing map.

 

For whatever it's worth when I added V&H slipons and a performance machine super gas air cleaner I went with a screaming eagle pro street tuner and Harley download. Engine runs cooler with no backfiring and is smooth running

 

I dont understand why you have the tuner and a harley download? unless you mean you downloaded your fuel tables into the tuner from a SE website or something along that lines?

Correct me if im wrong:
I was told by Harley and many other people that If its a harley download it still complies with the epa standards, witch is way to lean and doesnt do much for preformance. basically just eleminating backfires and decel popping.

My buddy went the screaming eagle way. SE slipons,SE air and harley download. His bike runs ridclously hot, and once i hit second gear hes toast.

 

This could really be a good thread. You should have posted here.

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...-injection-55/

As far as timing, This is the procedure I followed. I push my timing map ahead 4 degrees in every cell, then do a data run (Not SMARTTUNE) and look for spark retard. where it occurs I remove 2 degrees and repeat the process until I've advanced every cell as far as I can w/out detonation. I limit the total advance to no more than 45 degrees in any cell.

 

I only ever post in the dana section, i never even knew that thread existed

Awesome, this is exactly what i was looking for.
Why is 45 degrees your magic number?
Is there a coefficent from degrees to milliseconds?
is your timing map fairly consistant, or is it all over the place like a fuel map?

 

Yeah, I think a lot of folks are not really aware just how many different forums this board has. People tend to gravitate to where their main interests lie. So, the EFI wizards tend to hang in the EFI forum.

You know, 45 degrees just seemed to be a lot I kinda arbitrarily set this as a limit.

Perhaps, but I don't know the answer here.

Truthfully, It's been awhile since I've seen it as I have been in Afghanistan since Nov 2011. I do have it on my PC though.

Let me elaborate a bit here. I am by no means done with tuning. When I get home I plan to pull the packing out of the "Quiet" baffle on my Fat Cat. I suppose this will require more Smart Tuning.

I run a 100% open loop AFR map. This being the case, Accurate VE tables are rather important so Smart Tuning is critical.

IRT to tuning the timing map, after a data run if I find knock before I remove any timing I do look at the corresponding AFR cells, if they look lean compared to the surrounding values then I'll add a bit of fuel and try again but I don't want those cells to be significantly different than the cells in the surrounding area. More often than not it's the actual timing that gets adjusted not the fuel.