how would you remove a broken exhaust stud (bolt) from jug?
#12
05-10-2012, 12:24 PM
I would do the same thing, tell them it broke when you were riding and get out the trailer and make them fix it. Dealers make enough money off us. I had the same problem out of warranty. I used heat, a stud puller, welded a nut on it, beat the **** out of it, Left handed drill bits, you name it. I finally eneded up removing the head. It finally came out in chunks no thread sert. It sucks. Those studs s/b stainless steel but they are crap.
Last edited by slider1156; 05-10-2012 at 12:27 PM.
#13
05-10-2012, 01:16 PM
i have owned all kinds of harleys from iron heads to shovel heads to pan heads to evos and now a twin cam ( oh forgot flathead ) , granted only the shovel and evos and evo sportys have exhaust studs but the twin cam studs seem to be made out of junk . i have seen a year old twin cam with so much rust on stud the nut would not come loose and the entire stud came out . id try to get dealer to replace stud if you can , that jims tool is 60 bucks i believe so it not real cost affective but id does take the skill out of removing broken studs
#14
05-10-2012, 01:18 PM
Let's see...YOU replaced your own exhaust, but asked the DEALER to check the torque on the bolts? Then "fiddled around, tightening things", afterward? And are blaming the DEALER for stripping the threads? Wow!
If you don't have a torque wrench, you shouldn't have even gone near it, in the first place. Now, have a professional fix what you F'd up, or you could be looking at a much more serious and expensive repair.
If you don't have a torque wrench, you shouldn't have even gone near it, in the first place. Now, have a professional fix what you F'd up, or you could be looking at a much more serious and expensive repair.
#15
05-10-2012, 04:33 PM
I agree; it looks pretty negative alongside posts telling you to cheat/trick your dealer into repairing it. Among the negativity you'll find the best advice you've received, so far--have a pro fix it.
OP ham-handedly put enough pressure on that stud to snap it off flush, rather than soaking it, overnight, in Aerokroil and then using heat and an impact driver to try getting it out in one piece. A pro would have known better. A pro is already equipped w/ the tools and know-how to remove the broken stud w/ the least chance of damaging the head, while you are not. And you could make it so much worse that even a pro couldn't salvage it.
OP ham-handedly put enough pressure on that stud to snap it off flush, rather than soaking it, overnight, in Aerokroil and then using heat and an impact driver to try getting it out in one piece. A pro would have known better. A pro is already equipped w/ the tools and know-how to remove the broken stud w/ the least chance of damaging the head, while you are not. And you could make it so much worse that even a pro couldn't salvage it.
Last edited by lo-rider; 05-10-2012 at 04:39 PM.
#17
05-10-2012, 05:17 PM
I agree; it looks pretty negative alongside posts telling you to cheat/trick your dealer into repairing it. Among the negativity you'll find the best advice you've received, so far--have a pro fix it.
OP ham-handedly put enough pressure on that stud to snap it off flush, rather than soaking it, overnight, in Aerokroil and then using heat and an impact driver to try getting it out in one piece. A pro would have known better. A pro is already equipped w/ the tools and know-how to remove the broken stud w/ the least chance of damaging the head, while you are not. And you could make it so much worse that even a pro couldn't salvage it.
OP ham-handedly put enough pressure on that stud to snap it off flush, rather than soaking it, overnight, in Aerokroil and then using heat and an impact driver to try getting it out in one piece. A pro would have known better. A pro is already equipped w/ the tools and know-how to remove the broken stud w/ the least chance of damaging the head, while you are not. And you could make it so much worse that even a pro couldn't salvage it.
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