Need brake pads,HD or after market?
#11
I've been happy with the Lyndall Pads I've been using. Not entirely Dust Free, but considerably less (or less noticeable anyway) than the stock pads. With Wide White Walls and Spokes . . . . 'nuf said.
Braking performance seems to be similar . . . in as much as: 1.) I can lock up the front wheel with either the Stock Pads or the Lyndall's, 2.) Both the Stock Pads and the Lyndalls are easy to modulate, 3.) I don't seem to experience any more or less fade with the Lyndalls than I do with the Stock Pads. So IMHO there may be some differences but short of performing some seriously instrumented testing I can't say as how there seems to be any difference . . . with the exception of the cleaning/brake dust accumulation or lack there-of.
Braking performance seems to be similar . . . in as much as: 1.) I can lock up the front wheel with either the Stock Pads or the Lyndall's, 2.) Both the Stock Pads and the Lyndalls are easy to modulate, 3.) I don't seem to experience any more or less fade with the Lyndalls than I do with the Stock Pads. So IMHO there may be some differences but short of performing some seriously instrumented testing I can't say as how there seems to be any difference . . . with the exception of the cleaning/brake dust accumulation or lack there-of.
#12
#15
#17
brakes
I just installed a set of OEM kevlar organics on my bike yesterday. Three sets from Dennis Kirk at 25.95 each came to 78$ + tax. These seem to work just fine (so far) and they tell me it will not hurt my rotors like the stock pads will.
I put them on myself using a micro and regular torque wrench, a 12 point metric socket set and my service manual.
I bought a vacuum pump so I can bleed the brakes and will be doing that sometime in the next two weeks when I find a new OEM brake pad pin and metal clip - the moco wants 12$ each for that - I'm pretty sure I can do better but I will buy it at those prices if I have to. The only question I have now is where can I find a better deal on a brake pad pin and clip set.
By doing this and moving away from WWW tires on my RKC to Dunlop american elite, and Dunlop E3 for the front I saved around $700 on the dealer quote for the work (brakes and tires), and I'm having a local shop (that build trophy bikes) put the tires on. I'm picking up a 4 oz (2 and 2) Dyna Beads kit for $8.50 that they're going to use to balance it.
I'm not cheap I'm extravagant challenged.
I put them on myself using a micro and regular torque wrench, a 12 point metric socket set and my service manual.
I bought a vacuum pump so I can bleed the brakes and will be doing that sometime in the next two weeks when I find a new OEM brake pad pin and metal clip - the moco wants 12$ each for that - I'm pretty sure I can do better but I will buy it at those prices if I have to. The only question I have now is where can I find a better deal on a brake pad pin and clip set.
By doing this and moving away from WWW tires on my RKC to Dunlop american elite, and Dunlop E3 for the front I saved around $700 on the dealer quote for the work (brakes and tires), and I'm having a local shop (that build trophy bikes) put the tires on. I'm picking up a 4 oz (2 and 2) Dyna Beads kit for $8.50 that they're going to use to balance it.
I'm not cheap I'm extravagant challenged.
#18
Doing your own work and saving those big bucks is what this site is all about.
Especially nowadays where money is tight.
No matter the pads used just do a good careful job and get help if you need it.
The vacuum pump is a great idea, that is what I use and flush out the old fluid completely while your hooked up.
Especially nowadays where money is tight.
No matter the pads used just do a good careful job and get help if you need it.
The vacuum pump is a great idea, that is what I use and flush out the old fluid completely while your hooked up.
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HDMIKETN64
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06-05-2017 06:01 AM