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Replaced new rear motormount, vibrations increased

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Old 03-18-2012, 01:56 PM
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Default Replaced new rear motormount, vibrations increased

Front motormount is almost new. Now new rear is changed. Wheels alignment is 0.2 degeees off. Vibration occurs on seat and foot pegs. Any advices?
 
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:13 PM
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Did you perform the 'vehicle alignment' or just tighten the rear motor mount bolt? This may help somewhat: loosen (do not remove) all motor mount bolts, run bike for 5 seconds and then torque all motor mount bolts to spec. Search engine alignment on this site for other fixes.
 
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Old 03-18-2012, 03:16 PM
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1 degree is the limit and how did you check
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by vtwin47
Did you perform the 'vehicle alignment' or just tighten the rear motor mount bolt? This may help somewhat: loosen (do not remove) all motor mount bolts, run bike for 5 seconds and then torque all motor mount bolts to spec. Search engine alignment on this site for other fixes.
Which all bolts of the mounts? The ones that are joining mount to the frame, or the ones that are joining mount to the engine/transmission?

Esa
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:38 AM
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As per the 2011 Dyna Model Service Manual pg 2-32: loosen the engine isolator mounting bolts, run for 5 seconds and then retorque. The manual give you the torque sequence as well.
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by vtwin47
As per the 2011 Dyna Model Service Manual pg 2-32: loosen the engine isolator mounting bolts, run for 5 seconds and then retorque. The manual give you the torque sequence as well.
Ok, so it supposed to mean the ones to join the mount to frame.
 
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ezmo
Ok, so it supposed to mean the ones to join the mount to frame.
My 2003 Manual says to loosen ALL the mounting bolts on the engine isolators.
Clymer says the same & to lower the bike and run the engine for 5 seconds with the tires on the ground. In this way the engine will seat into the frame.
 
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Old 03-23-2012, 11:07 AM
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Motor alignment done, by loosening bolts and running engine, and tightening according the torques required. rear brake discs are 0.3 degrees offset from each others, so it is within acceptable tolerances.

Now on jiffy when twisting throttle, whole rear vibrates heavily. Saddlebag supports whines, like triangle, they do vibrate a lot sideways. Whole rear seems to vibrate oval movement . When on road, car lights on rear mirror moves from top left to bottom right on my mirror. Foot pegs shakes on low rpm heavily... Now at least it doesnt vibrate through whole range, its just first half of rpm range.....

Im not satisfied. May this be caused, due front mount is older than rear. Should they be changed same time??
 
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ezmo
Motor alignment done, by loosening bolts and running engine, and tightening according the torques required. rear brake discs are 0.3 degrees offset from each others, so it is within acceptable tolerances.

Now on jiffy when twisting throttle, whole rear vibrates heavily. Saddlebag supports whines, like triangle, they do vibrate a lot sideways. Whole rear seems to vibrate oval movement . When on road, car lights on rear mirror moves from top left to bottom right on my mirror. Foot pegs shakes on low rpm heavily... Now at least it doesnt vibrate through whole range, its just first half of rpm range.....

Im not satisfied. May this be caused, due front mount is older than rear. Should they be changed same time??
Front Isolator seems to have caused most vibration issues on my bike. 20k on bike now and never changed rear. Front was changed at 1.5k. Blew out again ay 2.5k. Latest one has lasted to 20k and seems to be running vibration free still (finding wood to knock).
 
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:24 PM
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Hey Man there is a wealth of information on this issue on the site. from what I have read even the OEM rubber isolators have been overbuilt and have to be shaved down to solve 'certain' vibration problems. It seems like it is time to pay the dealer.
 


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