Man, they won't talk real turkey till they see you come in and get serious with them. Bring your bike in and don't buy their's for anything more than 12500 with a two year factory warranty. If that thing doesn't get a warranty then they need to get off their high horse.
ALSO there is no way that with that few miles it was a Demo/rental Find out the real story. Demos and rentals stay around the stores till 7-10K miles.

Be prepared for them to lowball your Trade. You will not get credit for any accessories on your trade. So move the accessories off and stock out the bike. Sell your accessories on CL or here.

2010-2012 all had forwards

These guys are stroking you. Beat them back...HARD Don't take a Bull **** deal.

They get no Dealer prep for it... Tax, title and tag fees are all you should pay extra beyond the sticker.

 

Good advise...and then be fully prepared to walk. NEVER fall in love with a "thing" (bike, car, boat, etc.) or at least let the sales ***** know that you did.

 

BULLSH___I'd like to see your sales receipt

 

I wouldn't pay more then 10 for it but I got mine new for 12,900 thru military sales program. Even still it's two years late in the newer model, different motor, and you really don't know if some one test rode it and ragged it out.

 

Sounds like you're a bit new to the process. These guys are giving you some great advice that I'd like to add to and expand on.

1. Keep your poker face. Buying a car or motorcycle is a Business transaction and should be treated as nothing more than cold business. However, dealers WANT you to get emotional. They say things to bring feelings and emotions into the deal. "Oh, you look great on that bike." "See how well it fits you?" "Just imagine that parked in your garage." If you get emotional, logic goes out the window. Trust me, they're not getting emotional about you. Though, I'd love to say to a sales manager "Come on, how good would it look for you to get a sale today when everyone else around here is going dry?" "Wouldn't it feel great to have that little extra wad of cash in your pocket on payday?" "Just think of the nice dinner you could take your girl too if we make this happen." More on this in a bit.

2. Negotiate trade first, price of the new bike second. Dealers love to play the shell game. They make you focus on one thing (usually monthly payment) to trick you into forgetting about something else. This is where you have to keep one thing in mind. Be Strong. It's your money. You get to choose how you spend it...not them. Thus you negotiate on your terms. You need to know, repeat KNOW, what your trade is worth going in and negotiate to that number. Do this first and get that nailed down. THEN move on to the new bike. This way they cannot give you more on your trade and then take less of their bike or visa versa.

3. Do your homework. That's what you're doing here. You've learned now that the dealer did not "add" forwards to that 2010 WG. It came with them. Shop your local Cycle Trader, eBay and Craigslist to see what used WGs are going for. Find out if the bike comes with a 2 year warranty unlimited milage. If it does, then it should sell for more. If it doesn't, then the resale drops. You shouldn't be paying "new" prices for a bike that isn't "new" or come with a "new" bike warranty. When you go in there, you should have an idea of what a fair price for that bike is...this is what you have in mind during negotiations.

4. Be strong and turn their arguments around on them. Remember item number one? Dealers love to play mind games during negotiations. You have to "Stay Strong" and not give in to such things. For instance, I always love when they ask "Don't you want to buy a car/bike today?" to try to get me to cave on my numbers. I immediately respond "Sure do...don't you want to sell a car/bike today?" Another one I love "Come on, it's only $6/a day difference on monthly payments. That's eating out once a month. Surely you can swing that?" My reply: "It is only $6 a month. I can't believe you'd loose a sale over such a small amount." Most of their arguments swing both ways but most customers don't stay strong and collaps under their strategies. Keep this in mind.

5. The 4-square trap. Dealers...at least most...will use what they call a four-square. This is a "worksheet" that has your info on it, your trade, the price of the new vehicle, what you want to put down, and what you want your montly payments to be. They start with your info. Seems simple and harmless enough right? Not really. They start with that because they know they can get that info from you without any hassle. This setup them up as being in control. They're asking the questions, you answer. Human nature is that when this happens the question asker is in control and the question answerer is just following. Now they start working the four squares of Trade-in, new vehicle price, down payment and monthly payment. Really they just want you to focus on monthly payment. I cannot stress this enough...DON'T. You're monthly payment will work itself out so long as you get the bike for the price you want, get what you want for your trade, and know your credit well enough to know what interest rate you deserve. They use monthly payment to allow themselves to hide things like upping the price of their vehicle, throwing on added charges like "CA Delivery" (another $700 on top of the $350 Harley already charges for delivery...something a dealer out here does), sticking you with a higher interest rate than you qualify for (because they get a cut of that if they do), and giving you less for your trade.

6. Your feet are a negotiation tool. "This is the best deal we can give you." is a line dealers use to make you feel like negotiations should be over. If it's not what you want, reply "Great. Thank you for your time." and walk out. This is usually followed by "No, wait, don't go. Let me go talk to my manager." I usually chuckle and say "Well, if this is your best deal didn't you already talk to him? How about we stop playing the stupid 'best we can do' game and just get down to it?" It re-establishes that you're in control of this as it is your money...there are other dealers out there with other bikes so you don't need them, they need you.

Let us know how this goes and hope it helps.

 

Thanks to all who replied, especially ROBOTECH (I appreciate the time you took in your reply). Let me assure you I am not new to the process. I have researched both my bike and the 2010 WG. I returned a recent call from the dealer and clearly outlined the deal that would get me to trade with them and told them that if they do not sell the bike and can come close to my deal to give me a call. Both the dealer and myself were polite and ended the call in a friendly manner (just because we didn't reach a deal was no reason to be rude). I expect to hear from them again with a better offer, just not close enough to get me to deal. If I am wrong, then I will get a great deal and they will sell a bike that they would like to get off their showroom floor so they can push the newer models.

Until then, I will thoroughly enjoy my Super Glide (I still love the ride and may yet install the WG conversion kit when I install the Apes in a few weeks).

Thanks again for all the advise.

 

Just got a 2010 WG with 1567 miles for 12000 last week.

 

Heard from the Dealer and they are willing to go $14,000 + TTL. Still not low enough for me. Guess I'll just wait to see if they contact me again. They better hurry, I'm about to start my project soon (then it will be too late).

 

robotech. that's great info you placed here. We all know it but get caught up in the emotion of the purchase, anyway. I have been in sales 43 years, and don't use the tactics you mentioned. Don't think any moral sales rep should. I copied the list you posted and sent it to my email address book as a reminder to all on how to make a large purchase.

jcichp, the dealer is asking too much for a 2 year old bike, untitled or not. Holding off is the right thing to do. I have wasted thousands, due to emotional involvement, and hope you don't fall victim to the GAME... tomp dd50

 

Any thoughts on what you guys would pay for a 2011, new with flames? Is $14,000 too much of a goal even though the 2012 with the 103 isn't all that much more?