Rudedog......
If you are a metal fab guy this will be a cinch for you. I lost most of the photos I had of the stand with a computer crash last year but here are two that I found. Sorry, I do not have dimensions but I can measure mine if you need me to. Also, I will be glad to rephotograph it for you along with the dimensions. Just let me know.

I made mine out of 1 1/2 inch channel with the flat sides toward the wheel. I used a piece of 1/4 inch flat plate for the base.
Cut a V notch at the top of both members and use the axle nut to tighten it down.
I set mine up to hold a dial indicator (only because I am a half *** machinist) but a simple rod using feeler gages will work just fine.

The first time I used the stand the results were:
Total radial runout error was .019
Total side/side runout was .011. In otherwords....perfect.
The next wheel I did had prefect radial runout but the wheel was offset to the left a bit and so that required me to loosen nipples on the left as I tightened nipples on the right.
ALWAYS loosen BEFORE you tighten or else you will 'figure 8' the rim.
By figure 8, I mean put a twist in the rim that will require more effort to correct, not meaning ruining the rim.
Let me know if you need anything to help with the project. I just bought a used 21 inch wheel on Ebay to put on my Dyna. It looks like it may need stainless spokes (my #1 choice) installed to replace some rusted chrome ones, so I will be wheel building myself very soon................pg

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Good description and the photos help enough but what I'll need is a closeup of the gauge and how you mounted it to get the side to side and roundness measurements.

Thanks a ton!

 

Rudedog...
Ok. I will get the stand down out of the shop attic and take some photos of it. If the jeps are too large a file size I may have to email you the cpoy. We will see what happens. Just give me a little time to do this is all I ask.......pg

 

Rudedog....
Here are some photos of the stand. I cannot locate the fixture to hold the dial indicator, but it is the same as the wire rod indicator that is shown clamped to the upright.
I said earlier that I used 2 inch channel for the fabrication. Wrong. I used 1 1/2 sq mechanical tube. The base plate is 1/4 inch thick plate and measures 10 in x 3 3/4 inch. The two support posts are 20 inches tall and welded to the base plate. This is made for my old Sportster and my Dyna Low Rider. If you have a wideglide, measure the width of your hub and make your stand to fit the extra width. Also, make it so that you can use your bikes front axle to mount wheel in the stand.
I like to use a clamp to hold the dial indicator and/or the rod indicator because this allows me to use different size wheels to true.

The axle looking thing going thru the tabs up top is an aluminum rod I use to simulate an axle and the various spacers sitting on it are just that....spacers. These are used to trap the wheel tightly.
Hey, you can use the front forks on your bike to do the same thing as the stand if you want. The bench stand is just better and easier to use. The problem with using the front forks is mounting an indicator and it is a back breaker to bend over as you true.

Hope this gives you some help and/or ideas of your own. Need anything else just let me know........pg



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GREAT PG!!!
Thanks a ton! I 'm gonna build this thing. I've got a couple of dial indicators lying around at work that I think will work if I mount them properly and make it so I can move them around, like you said. Thanks again, you were most helpful on this endeavor.

 

Piniongear,
I really do appreciate all your help here. I have gotten the rims apart and to tell you the truth it was real easy just like you have explained. I put tape around the spokes where they crossed then removed each nipple. I must also say that I went to Home Depot and got some electritians number and letter tape. They are little strips of tape with a letter on it and then a single little letter on a little square piece of tape and individually marked each spoke and its location on the hub to make sure i knew where it went just in case. I also notted on the hub where the air filler opening was on the rim. After I got all the nipples removed the rim just slid right up and the configuration of the spokes basically stayed in shape, so that when I get the rim back I can put tape on the rim (to protect it) and reset it back like it was and start putting all the nipples back together.
I am taking them afterwards to a guy who has a true stand and haveing him true it up then they will remount the tire and TADA, done. Ya I know it may not be that simple going back together, but so far it really has been a fairly easy task as long as you take your time and note where things are.
So again, "Thanks" so much for the help!!!
If anyone is thinking of doing this, I am telling you if you only do the rim, it is not as hard as you may think.

 

Well to anyone who is interested in powder coating your rims, I have just about completed the process. Here is where I am now.
I got the rims back from the powder coater and to be honest, they look great! Nice bright fire engine red. I started the process of putting them back together and well it was almost as easy as taking them apart was. Took me about an hour each. Took the rims to a local company that has a guy who can true them up, had that done and the only thing I have left is to have the tires put back on which will be tomorrow. When I had the rims coated I had them put a piece of tape around the inside of the rim where the ball like end of the nipples for the spokes sits in. This is so that they would not interfer with the nipple seats. Well when they prep the rims, they sandblast them, removing the crome and well this leaves bare metal and so I had to paint the inside of the rims (after they were trued up) to protect them. Now I am waiting for them to dry and tomorrow the tires go back on.
All in all, it was extremely easy and the results are great. Total cost for project are:

tires removed and re-installed and balanced = $25.00 each - $50.00
Powder coating = $40.00 each - $80.00
Rims trued up and checked for correct lacing (I relaced them, very easy) = $50.00 each - $100.00

Total = $230.00 or so.
Pics to come if I can ever figure out how to do it correctly (hints are welcome)

 

See previous post for update!

 

Yeah Stanger....
I'd like to see what you have there with the powder coated rims. Take a couple of shots and post them here for all of us to see.
It sounds like you broke down your wheels and relaced them yourself without any problem. It is a lot easier than most people think. There are a few things you must know, but you learn as you go and ask questions of others always.

If you can save the photos to your computer, then just check the box at the bottom of the message post to embed picture in post and then hit click here to upload and hit browse to find where you put them.
You must have the total file size of the jegs no more that 500MB though, so watch that...........pg

 

Well the rims are done and on the bike. Took it for a short ride and they look great. I am going to attempt a pic post here of it.


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