Carbs
#1
Carbs
Is everything coming out of the H-D factory fuel-injected these days?
Reason I ask: my 88 is fine, but if I want to punch it up some cubes, what would be the carb requirement? I guess another way to ask would be: how big an engine will the OE 'tuned' carb be able to feed? Wonder some about the drive train also, but first things first. Thanks
Reason I ask: my 88 is fine, but if I want to punch it up some cubes, what would be the carb requirement? I guess another way to ask would be: how big an engine will the OE 'tuned' carb be able to feed? Wonder some about the drive train also, but first things first. Thanks
#2
Is everything coming out of the H-D factory fuel-injected these days?
Reason I ask: my 88 is fine, but if I want to punch it up some cubes, what would be the carb requirement? I guess another way to ask would be: how big an engine will the OE 'tuned' carb be able to feed? Wonder some about the drive train also, but first things first. Thanks
Reason I ask: my 88 is fine, but if I want to punch it up some cubes, what would be the carb requirement? I guess another way to ask would be: how big an engine will the OE 'tuned' carb be able to feed? Wonder some about the drive train also, but first things first. Thanks
For 88 inchers with mild cams and exhaust a properly jetted stock carb is OK for a less aggressive setup though, and will yield better fuel mileage for guys riding high miles per sit down.
Drivetrain only needs a Heavy Duty clutch spring in my opinion. A Baker IPB bearing never hurt anything either.
#4
IIRC, all have been EFI since 2007.
The OEM CV carb is dissed by many in favor of the Mikuni but the CV carb is quite adequate for almost any configuration; they go up to 58mm. The Mik provides better low end throttle response but the slide in noisy. If you look at real world flow data, the CV is on par with the Mik and alll is relative to the head flow and air intake. A carb, or TB, that flows 300cfm isn't much good if the air intake only flows 250cfm or the head flow flattens out at 275cfm.
IMHO, the CV is easier to tune.
SE manifold with the CV; S&S makes a manifold for the Mikuni.
The OEM CV carb is dissed by many in favor of the Mikuni but the CV carb is quite adequate for almost any configuration; they go up to 58mm. The Mik provides better low end throttle response but the slide in noisy. If you look at real world flow data, the CV is on par with the Mik and alll is relative to the head flow and air intake. A carb, or TB, that flows 300cfm isn't much good if the air intake only flows 250cfm or the head flow flattens out at 275cfm.
IMHO, the CV is easier to tune.
SE manifold with the CV; S&S makes a manifold for the Mikuni.
Last edited by djl; 10-08-2011 at 10:37 AM.
#5
Everybody has their opinion of carbs.
To answer your original question, everything coming out of HD today is indeed EFI, no more carbs.
As far as what carb? A tuned CV is a good choice if done right, Woods does some good work with CV carbs. It will adjust better to altitude, etc.
Mikuni 42 or S&S Super E are the other two popular choices. S&S is the more "old school" simple design with full mechanical operation.
I am going with a Mikuni for my 97" build this winter. The part number for the Mikuni Easy kit for the TC88 that will use your stock cables is 42-18
To answer your original question, everything coming out of HD today is indeed EFI, no more carbs.
As far as what carb? A tuned CV is a good choice if done right, Woods does some good work with CV carbs. It will adjust better to altitude, etc.
Mikuni 42 or S&S Super E are the other two popular choices. S&S is the more "old school" simple design with full mechanical operation.
I am going with a Mikuni for my 97" build this winter. The part number for the Mikuni Easy kit for the TC88 that will use your stock cables is 42-18
#7
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#8
Wow, where are all the S&S guys. You can put an S&S Super E an any hopped up motor up to around 100 inches and it will run like a champ. Bigger than that and you will need an S&S Super G. Nothing at all wrong with a Mikuni, but Harley's already have enough jap crap on them for my taste, so if the time comes that my CV with a thunder slide and Yost power tube isn't enough, I'll put a tried and true American made S&S on my Low Rider. They have been around for decades, are super easy to tune, last forever and make great power. What else can you ask from a carb.
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#9
I've rebuilt the carb with a CVP tuners-kit and some other parts. The PO had a dyno-jet kit it in and the vacuum-piston was ruined. It's great now, but I was just wondering how it would feed a cubed-up engine. Thanks
#10
I love the super E but a mikuni will take a super E in a roll on simply because the throttle response of the carb opens quicker. I ran super E's for years but mikuni is definately the quickest off the line. OP if you want mileage the cv is the way to go. if you want performance you cant beat a mikuni or a super E.