What year Street Glide?

Thanks for the help, between you all and tge FL group, I know where I can get the fender I want. http://www.kustombaggers.com/Klock-W...769&ez=8.25%20 fender Now, I just need to figure out if I want to go with the 2" stretch or the 6" stretch. I don't know where the stock fender would end at so I don't know if the 6" is to long or if the 2" would be to short. Any idea's? I know the fender is a little pricey, but it minimal mod work also, few welds, new holes and paint.

 

Stock FL type rear fender ends 13 inches from the ground. Take the stretch from there.................

 

Your Dyna fender attaches in front to a frame bracket, this pretty much establishes it's fore/aft location. From this point the fender can be raised or lowered in relation to the highest point of the fender's arc which falls about mid-way between the front and rear strut mounts.

Before drilling the holes in the fender sides, make sure that the seat's rear mounting hole is close to the factory location in all 3 planes. Otherwise you will end up placing spacers under the rear seat mount or at the other extreme, have the middle of the seat floating above the frame and need spacers underneath the seat bumpers.

The only way to really avoid having seat fitment issues is to get a rear fender that has the same arc (outside radius) as the one that came on your bike. Behind the seat mounting holes the fender can extend or radius any way you choose.

 

AFMM3-So based on the 13" from the ground to the bottom back edge of the fender, then minus 6" for the stretch and then another 1.5" for the Burly Slammers.....I am looking at the rear edge sitting around 5-6" off the ground. I could go with that and be VERY, VERY careful when going over speed bumps, watching out for any possible bottoming out issues while on the road and curbs when backing her up into a parking spot. All I do know is that my tire guy will hate me when it comes time to change them!!!

Hemi - Thanks for the insight, these are things that I have already been looking into. I didn't know about the front hole lining up with the existing one. That would make things a little easier for me. I could mount the front section, install a two up seat and rotate the fender up and down until I have the spacing under the seat where I like it. Then I could secure the fender in the rear with some clamps make all my hole locations (seat and fender struts), remove the seat, install my solo seat, get its hole location, put on the passenger pillion and make sure its mount hole location matches the two up one. Make adjustment as needed, then drill all my holes and send off for rework and paint. That sound about right to you?

Thanks again for the help.

 

So here is a picture of the fend I am thinking I am going to go with. It is 8.25" wideand has a 6" stretch. I should beable to order it within the next month. All I should have to do is fit check and tweak as needed, have the notches on the back filled and then painted.

 

That is very good thinking! I'm glad that you were able to make sense out of what I was trying to say.

 

Nice looking fender. If it's steel, filing that notch won't be a big deal, even a fiberglass fender can be filled. ABS or composites aren't that easy to do.

Another consideration, if it's steel, is the gauge. 18 ga needs extra reinforcement underneath IMHO, I added it to mine for the seat bolts. 12 ga, like Paul Yaffe's stuff is armor tough and easy to work with. 14 to 16 ga is a very happy medium.

 

My fender is off a 2009, got it cheap because the stud on the inside of the fender the supports bolt to broke off. Being a new model there was no demand for it so $50 was the winning bid! Glad you found some good info in the FL Dyna section!

Pretty much what I did, it didn't turn out perfect but it's damn close.