I noticed yesterday my rear brake lever felt 'deeper' before it engaged the brake. Didn't feel spongy, but took more travel in the lever (and brake rod) to get the same effect on the rotor. I bled through all of the fluid in the caliper today, and have all fresh fluid in now. Feels slightly better, but still takes more pedal to reach the friction point where the pads clamp down on the rotor. Not spongy at all, just "late" on the take up. Do I need to adjust the length of the brake rod? Or the angle of the pedal? I see the jam nut at the end of the rod next to the master, but can't find any adjustment procedure in my HD service manual. I haven't changed pads or done any other work except bleeding. Thanks for any help.

 

My brake rod moves less than 1/4" from rest to full engagement. Sounds like your brake pads are worn,

 

+1 Sounds like worn pads to me too. Inspect the pads, if they look good then clean the calipers paying close attention to the pistons.

 

I have a new set of Lyndalls on the way, so I will clean the caliper before I install them and see how it goes. Is there ever a need to adjust the rod length at the master cylinder? Thanks.

 

There may be but I'm not aware of what that instance would be. If they were fine and started to change over a short period of time I'd stick with pads and cleaning first. I just had my front brakes do what you're describing. Since I was taking the wheels off the have new tires mounted I figured I'd give the brakes a once over. I placed a wide putty knife between the pads and pumped the brakes until the pads compressed on the knife, to expose as much of the pistons as possible, gave them a real good cleaning with brake cleaner and an old toothbrush. They are like brand new brakes, when I took it for the first ride after the cleaning I nearly locked up the front end they were so responsive.

 

Just adjust it if needed. Your brake pedal at rest is adjusted to the brake rod at rest. If the foot control pedal isn't at the right height, then shorten or lengthen the brake rod as needed.

I like my foot controls to be "right there" when I need them. I don't want to have to move my foot up or back (as in highway pegs) to find them, they should just be in line with your natural instincts to push down to brake, just like any race bike that requires instinctive and split second braking.

I see guys with forward mounted floorboards, normally mounted way too horizontal, and their brake pedal is adjusted way too high to quickly reach, it looks like they have to lift their foot off the board to make contact with it. All controls should be adjusted for easy reach from your normal seated position. That includes your hand levers that should be adjusted so that your wrists are straight when pulling them in.

 

Replaced the pads, had the wheel off for a new tire, so I extended the pistons all the way, sprayed them down with a little brake cleaner, and cleaned them up. Reinstalled, and bled the hell out of it (like a full master cylinder). Its perfect now. Thanks for the help!

 

when replacing the pads tear apart the caliper and rebuild it, if you have an 07 they will need it! i have rebuilt my 06 brakes 3 times now, i try to do it every other pad change... if you are looking for a how to, howard has a great how to on his website motorcyclemetal.com

they get dirty and need it man

 

Thanks Joe. I have the how-to, and a manual. I have 20,000 on the bike, and the original pads I pulled this week had half the depth left on them. The calipers feel great since I cleaned them and bled the shiz out of them. I will rebuild them when I replace these LRB pads, or if they act up again. I gotta get a new clutch cable installed since it is wearing and weeping where it rubbs against the rear of the engine. I think it is too long, so I am going down 2" and installing some of that protective sleeve from cableorganizer over the top. That, a complete service, and a SE clutch spring and I am good for another year. Just got the 21" on the front with Metz 880s front and rear. Like it so far, but only have about 60 miles on them. Ride safe.

 

I had the same problem on my Sporty a few months back. It wasn't the pads, they were only a month old. I rebuilt the MC and flushed the system... problem solved.

I'm guessing deteriorating rubber was clogging some of the ports and causing malfunction.