a week ago or so I went for a ride and the check engine light came on with the battery light. I turned around to go home but the lights turned off before I got there. Then a few rides later the same thing happened again and then tonight it happened again. Each time the lights stay on for only about 10 minutes. I ran a diagnostic code check and came up with code P0562 which means low voltage in EFI. I checked the connections in the voltage regulator and they looked fine. The fact its intermittent is driving me nuts. I changed the handlebars about a month ago and had to solder some wires but I did a careful job and that was about 30 rides before these codes came on so I'm thinking it's not that. The only questionable thing I did was I had to extend a wire in the signal light portion and used a wire from an old television that was similar in width but may not have been the same. Could something like that cause low voltage? And if it was that would there not be problems with the signal associated with that connection? Please help me guys I have a long ride planned for month end and I currently have zero confidense in my ride.

The bike is an 07 street bob with 4000 km on it.

 

PS. Another thing that came to mind is that these codes came up the first ride after pressure washing the bike.

 

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The following is from my 2008 Harley-Davidson Electrical Diagnostic Manual:

"DTC PO562 is displayed when battery voltage is less than 12.2 volts at idle & voltage does not increase when engine speed is greater than 2000 rpm."


DIAGNOSTIC TIPS

• Low voltage generally indicates a loose wire, corroded connections, battery and/or charging system problem.
• Check the ground connection at the frame.
• Check the battery terminal connections.

Your low voltage problem has more to do with the battery charging system rather than the 'television wire, similar in width' that was grafted into the turn signal circuit.

IMO... the real trouble you're having is the 'zero confidence in your ride'.
This can be easily corrected by a qualified technician, or... even better... by your self.

Get your self a set of factory service manuals and do your own maintainence.
The confidense in your ride will increase with your ability to properly maintain it.

 

Not sure what you mean by pressure wash? Garden hose or deck cleaner? You may be driving driving water into the electrical connections on some low voltage and amperage connections on the ecm and throttle body. A pressure washer will turn a bike's electrical system into junk including the wheel bearing and neck bearings. Charge battery well for 24 hours, remove it and get it checked for amperage rating on side before doing any more.

 

Thanks for the reply. I actually have all the service manuals for my bike. I'm slowly but surely learning how to use them. I checked the terminal connections and they seem to be fine. I have not checked the ground connection yet, I will have to find where that is and take a look at it tonight. All wires and connections that I've checked so far are perfect...the bike is practically brand new still. I'm thinking the pressure wash buggered things up....I really gave it a good once over from close range to get the bugs off. I always seem to learn the hard way.

 

Is it even possible that something wrong in the wiring job in the bars could be setting off the low voltage code? If it is not possible then I won't pull the wiring out to look at it because that will be a long dirty job checking all that. To me it doesn't make much sense that the wiring in the bars would have anything to do with the low voltage.

 

mine is doing the samething, but mine also comes up with a code after that reading " Pn 323384 ". i know that it is not a regular part no# and was told by the Dealership that it was a code ! DUH ! anyone know what that code is ? would really appreciate it seeing how HD Corp will not own up too their bad design of the rotor that tore up things !

 

I recently had the same issue with my '08 Fat Bob.

The problem with my bike was the stator. I used the service manual and the electrical diagnostic manual to troubleshoot the voltage regulator and the stator. Regulator was fine but the stator was shot.

Stator Check
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. See Figure 1-17. Connect an ohmmeter.
a. Disconnect voltage regulator connector from alternator
stator wiring.
b. Insert one ohmmeter lead into a stator connector
socket.
c. Attach the other lead to a suitable ground.
3. Test for continuity with ohmmeter set to the ohms scale.
a. A good stator will show no continuity (open circuit)
between any stator sockets and ground.
b. Any other reading indicates a grounded stator which
must be replaced.
4. See Figure 1-18. Check resistance across stator sockets
1-2, 2-3 and 3-1.
5. Test for resistance with ohmmeter set on the ohms scale.
a. Resistance across all the stator sockets should be
0.1-0.2 ohms.
b. If the resistance is higher, the stator is damaged and
must be replaced.
c. If resistance is lower, this could indicate an internal
short between the windings.

 

had a similar problem while riding in the mountains last week and finally limped into a hole in the wall yamaha shop who told me my battery was gone,new battery and three miles down the road after 2 hours at the shop the batt-check engine come back on-idont know what made me look down there but the stator wire was loose in the connector by the motor mt and regulator,plugged it back in and no more problem.i suspect when the dealer changed the motor mount a while back they knocked it loose as the wire caddy was also out of place.