Installing SE204 Cam - Checking to see if I've got everything covered...
#1
Installing SE204 Cam - Checking to see if I've got everything covered...
Installing SE204 Cam - Checking to see if I've got everything covered...
2009 FXDB Street Bob 96"
Okay ladies and gents, since my wondering exhaust system decided to crack right off the engine and, as a result, I have to get a new exhaust system, I figured since the m'fer was off the bike was disabled, I might as well install a cam. Well I've eyeballed all kinds, focusing on mid-range cams and ended up finding a sweet deal on a new SE204. I know, probably not the best of the best cam but all the others were $300+ and, need I remind you, I haven't won the lottery yet. If I had, I'd be at Rocket Bobs learning everything...
So, I have ordered the following stuff:
- SE 204 camshafts
- Fueling P/N 2070 camshaft install kit (incl. required Timken bearings and the bits)
- Blind hole bearing puller (Harbor Freight)
Here's what I have questions on:
- Cometic P/N C9790 .30 head gasket: I'm told I should get this size for compression? I'm not sure I understand the compression bit but I'm told the SE 204 will like the extra bit of compression that I'd get with this thinner squish. You tell me...
- HyLift V-Lift P/N V2313 lifters: I'm told by many that these are the ones to get but do I need to get the heavier duty spring if I'm installing a non-stock cam? I figure no. I'm not even sure I need to replace them (18,000 miles) but I'm hearing that at 20K you should give them a look and 18K is close plus I've in the past valve train noise so I figure maybe these could benefit from a switchin' anyway.
I've decided that since I'm trying not to spend a million dollars here, I'm going to keep the OEM pushrods and springs and what not. The SE204 is supposed to be drop in, so don't see why I need to get new adjustables or anything. I honestly have zero trust in these adjustable ones... just too much operational complication for what basically needs to be a stick of metal. I don't mind taking off the covers... might as well get them powdercoated while they're off - they are an eyesore that should have never been put on a Street Bob anyway.
I know, I should probably just put a 103" or 106" on there while I'm at it, but a man's wallet thins quick these days. Hoping to snag a few more torques and horses from this engine for a while before I (eventually) get savvy enough to do a proper tear down.
Thanks for the help, advice, and thoughts.
2009 FXDB Street Bob 96"
Okay ladies and gents, since my wondering exhaust system decided to crack right off the engine and, as a result, I have to get a new exhaust system, I figured since the m'fer was off the bike was disabled, I might as well install a cam. Well I've eyeballed all kinds, focusing on mid-range cams and ended up finding a sweet deal on a new SE204. I know, probably not the best of the best cam but all the others were $300+ and, need I remind you, I haven't won the lottery yet. If I had, I'd be at Rocket Bobs learning everything...
So, I have ordered the following stuff:
- SE 204 camshafts
- Fueling P/N 2070 camshaft install kit (incl. required Timken bearings and the bits)
- Blind hole bearing puller (Harbor Freight)
Here's what I have questions on:
- Cometic P/N C9790 .30 head gasket: I'm told I should get this size for compression? I'm not sure I understand the compression bit but I'm told the SE 204 will like the extra bit of compression that I'd get with this thinner squish. You tell me...
- HyLift V-Lift P/N V2313 lifters: I'm told by many that these are the ones to get but do I need to get the heavier duty spring if I'm installing a non-stock cam? I figure no. I'm not even sure I need to replace them (18,000 miles) but I'm hearing that at 20K you should give them a look and 18K is close plus I've in the past valve train noise so I figure maybe these could benefit from a switchin' anyway.
I've decided that since I'm trying not to spend a million dollars here, I'm going to keep the OEM pushrods and springs and what not. The SE204 is supposed to be drop in, so don't see why I need to get new adjustables or anything. I honestly have zero trust in these adjustable ones... just too much operational complication for what basically needs to be a stick of metal. I don't mind taking off the covers... might as well get them powdercoated while they're off - they are an eyesore that should have never been put on a Street Bob anyway.
I know, I should probably just put a 103" or 106" on there while I'm at it, but a man's wallet thins quick these days. Hoping to snag a few more torques and horses from this engine for a while before I (eventually) get savvy enough to do a proper tear down.
Thanks for the help, advice, and thoughts.
#2
#4
I installed the SE204's on a RoadKing almost ten years ago (same deal, paid almost nothing for a used set with less than 1K on them). It's a great cam for passing on those two lane roads, just drop one or two gears and you're in its sweet spot. It doesn't really come alive until about 2800 RPM and may affect the lower end torque just slightly, but with a lighter bike like the Dyna you may never notice any degradation (especially if you're running 95ci).
#5
Join Date: Feb 2008
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I installed the SE204's on a RoadKing almost ten years ago (same deal, paid almost nothing for a used set with less than 1K on them). It's a great cam for passing on those two lane roads, just drop one or two gears and you're in its sweet spot. It doesn't really come alive until about 2800 RPM and may affect the lower end torque just slightly, but with a lighter bike like the Dyna you may never notice any degradation (especially if you're running 95ci).
I run Wood tw6 cams. I don't need to downshift to pass anyone. Just roll on the throttle.
#6
This is why folks need to be very truthful about their riding style when it comes to picking cams. The 204 likes that 2800 to 5600 rpm range. They provide good "seat of the pants" power in that range, but like most cams, they have their limitations.
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#8
So, should I wait for the SE204 cam I have on backorder until late August, or should I get instead an Andrews 48, Fueling 525 or 574, Cycle-Rama 575, or other ideas? I need it to be a bolt-in and add TQ and HP across the power band - I'm a rev-happy guy but also want to start fast; I don't want to use adjustable pushrods - just don't trust them. I'm thinking if it starts around 2,000 RPM and goes up to 5,800-6,200, I'm good. I don't need (or want) a bagger-style TQ cam that starts at idle and goes to 4,000 only.
#9
#10
As much as I'd like to consider a Woods, they are really expensive. I keep hearing they add a ton of noise and are a bit harsh on the valve train. I suppose all real cams would be, but still. I'm just not "sold" on Woods, despite everyone loving them so much. Maybe I like to be different... haha.
What did those LRS pipes set you back? I've heard great things about them in terms of performance - but also heard they are mega loud! I had a BUB 2:1 that was also really loud (despite the website saying "not objectionable sound level") and it actually reduced the off-the-line TQ as compared to my BUB Jug Huggers w/wrapped quiet baffles for whatever reason (re-tuned). I decided to go to the Bassani's this time after the 2:1 header cracked - wanted the short 2:2 look again.
What did those LRS pipes set you back? I've heard great things about them in terms of performance - but also heard they are mega loud! I had a BUB 2:1 that was also really loud (despite the website saying "not objectionable sound level") and it actually reduced the off-the-line TQ as compared to my BUB Jug Huggers w/wrapped quiet baffles for whatever reason (re-tuned). I decided to go to the Bassani's this time after the 2:1 header cracked - wanted the short 2:2 look again.
Last edited by ncbrq; 07-13-2011 at 02:33 PM.