Really nice numbers. I went with the FM107 jugs and Andrews 54 cam, pullin 100/112 hp/tq. Bad tune I think. I want to get to where you are at.

 

I haven't done any clutch work. Believe it or not, Jamie said it pulled and engaged just fine, no slipping at all.

But right now I am looking at just throwing in a AIM VPC. I probably should've had them do it while it was there but didn't think about that honestly. But I had been reading up on the AIM products.

 

All those numbers are directly from my paperwork. Honestly I don't see the throttle body work on there.....but I know they did it. It's on the Dyno sheet. According to the website its 169.00 Thanks for pointing that out, I need to call Jamie and ensure they weren't shorted. They do good work, I'd feel guilty if I didn't call him. Thanks.

 

No disrespect fellas, but that 107" kit seems to put out mild numbers. Not bragging, but my 103" puts out 124hp and 121 tq. I'm thinking the difference is in the way the heads are ported and polished.

 

Wow, 124/121 on a 103... so a 107 would give you maybe 130s or 140s? I am not doubting you, but I saw in a similar thread where a guy is getting hammered for posting run sheets on his 107 with similar numbers to what you are saying you are getting from a 103 build...

I suspect this thread is going to be going south real soon...

 

You are looking in the right direction at the AIM VPC. After my build I did a hard, but short, 20 mile break-in run. During a few of my hard spirited blasts I felt something strange, then the odor of burnt clutch drifted to my nose as soon as I pulled back in to my driveway. The AIM was ordered immediately. That problem was solved before my clutch was toast. An easy install! Just have a 1/4" drive torque wrench handy.

Your next upgrade will probably be an SE compensator. It's way easier to install than the manual, SE instructions, or some others have suggested on here. I forget who did the great write-up, I have a printed version in front of me now, but I don't see his name on it. The title reads "Installing SE compensator kit w/pics"

You won't have to touch your newly installed AIM VPC to later install the compensator! It's a two hour job, the only specialized tools are a 1/2" drive torque wrench and a block of wood, though I cut a piece of 1/4" x 1-1/4" x 7.5" long piece of aluminum flat bar instead. I did use an air impact wrench to remove the 13/16" comp bolt, but that's not needed. On the other hand, if you have the impact wrench, then the bar or wood block isn't necessary, either. Tightening the nut back on needs neither, either.

 

Great numbers. I'd be bragging...haha! I can't say I've seen numbers that high from a 103" so that is really good. I'm sure the difference is in the cams as well. Also what size is your throttle body. Jamie said I was at the maximum size of my throttle body....and if I wanted more I would need to go to a bigger one.

 

I put in the AIM VP stage 3 clutch in mine. Id be real skeptical riding that thing with the stock clutch still in it... also just a heads up, I had to space out my derby cover, the weights on the clutch were hittin as the rpms climbed.
For what its worth AIM is the best I've personally seen in action. Ive got a buddy with a 150/150 road glide and that thing hits like a sledge hammer to the chest when you let that clutch go...

 

One more thing, Aaron... You might consider a steeper rise in the back of your seat, especially since you have (nice looking, by the way) forward controls. Your Lepera's profile looks very close to the factory one. Even with a nearly stock engine, I'd almost slide off the back of my stock seat during strong 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts. I bought a seat with a a bit more support at the back, now, even with the added power, I don't have to hang on as tight when I bang through the gears.

 

Forgive my ignorance, but what will the SE compensator do for me? I'm honestly not knowledgeable enough to know.

I am definitely going to get the AIM VPC...should I replace the clutch spring as well? or is the stock good enough?