Remove mid controls and install forward controls without removing primary!!!
#91
01-14-2013 | 11:47 AM
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 6,662
Likes: 579
From: South Florida
Shift lever
I have to thank you Baracu for posting your thread on how to replace trans shift lever.I installed my forward control kit by cutting the mid control shift lever off behind the inner primary and did not replace the trans lever.Since then ,I have upgraded to the floor board kit which of course includes the forward control kit.Again,I did not change the trans lever and it shifted OK to me.After reading your post,I decided to replace the trans lever with the longer one provided in the kit.It took me all of 10 minutes and I was done.Original lever just pulled off easily and the new lever went right on.What a difference in shifting.Its a little longer throw,but it shifts so much smoother and with little effort and finding neutral is a piece of cake.
#93
10-25-2013 | 01:22 AM
6th Gear
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Hi
I know this is old, just doing some research cause Im about to buy an 09 street bob.
I will just be leaving the old mid contol shifter in place when I put on forwards.
I'm looking at the directions for kuryakyn forward controls and don't know what part you are referring to?
http://www.kuryakyn.com/documents/in...-26HD-0513.pdf
It doesn't appear to come with a new trans lever. . is that specific to a certain year dyna?
I don't see any references in the Harley kit directions either?
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04537.pdf
Let me know when you have a chance!
thanks
I know this is old, just doing some research cause Im about to buy an 09 street bob.
I will just be leaving the old mid contol shifter in place when I put on forwards.
I'm looking at the directions for kuryakyn forward controls and don't know what part you are referring to?
http://www.kuryakyn.com/documents/in...-26HD-0513.pdf
It doesn't appear to come with a new trans lever. . is that specific to a certain year dyna?
I don't see any references in the Harley kit directions either?
http://www.harley-davidson.com/en_US...ts/-J04537.pdf
Let me know when you have a chance!
thanks
[/I]
You don't have to! I did mine and my two sons and never touched the inner or outer primary. The '06 and later kit uses a longer trans lever than the earlier kits. To do the job RIGHT you have to change it. It keeps the symmetry between the shift lever and trans lever correct.
Here's how:
... remove the shift rod from the trans lever
... put some masking tape on the inner primary cover and trans housing
and mark the orientation of the trans lever
... remove the allen bolt on trans lever, I think it's 1/4", but check You need a long allen wrench , preferably on a socket. It's REALLY tight. might need a cheater bar on it. Don't strip the head on the bolt or you're screwed.
... The lever will not slide off...not enough room. You have to "toggle" it off.
... You have to spread the slot at the bottom of the lever that clamps to the trans shaft, even if it's only a few Thousandths of an inch. Sears makes a small right angle screwdriver that's straight on one end and Phillips on the other. Buy a couple of them, they break.
... get the straight part of the blade into the lever slot and spread the slot open a litttle. It's not easy, but you have to get it spread a little. The lever should be pretty loose on the shaft.
...This part is hard to explain....You have to use a LIGHT toggle motion on the lever towards the engine. To get the "feel" of the motion, extend your right arm, bend your wrist almost 90* to the left and pretend you're turning a key in the ignition with just your wrist. You have to move the lever out 1/8" to 1/4" and then toggle it back toward the engine. Just keep playing with it, but don't force it. If you have to , open up the slot a little more. It will be frustrating the first time, but it will come off.
... Once you get it off, reverse the motion immediately, to get the feel of what you're doing and put it on again, then take it off again.
...before putting the new longer lever on, open up the slot a little. It's much easier to do off the bike.
... while everything is off...look at how the bevel on the shaft and the small relief cut into the back of the lever to understand how it works coming off and going back on.
... If you're putting the black controls on, the lever is powder coated. You may have to open up the new lever a little extra to get it on and remove some of the coating around the back of the spline opening.
The first time is going to be a little frustrating, but hang in there, it will come off! The hardest part is getting that spline opened up.I can change one now in under 10 minutes.
Good Luck! AL
You don't have to! I did mine and my two sons and never touched the inner or outer primary. The '06 and later kit uses a longer trans lever than the earlier kits. To do the job RIGHT you have to change it. It keeps the symmetry between the shift lever and trans lever correct.
Here's how:
... remove the shift rod from the trans lever
... put some masking tape on the inner primary cover and trans housing
and mark the orientation of the trans lever
... remove the allen bolt on trans lever, I think it's 1/4", but check You need a long allen wrench , preferably on a socket. It's REALLY tight. might need a cheater bar on it. Don't strip the head on the bolt or you're screwed.
... The lever will not slide off...not enough room. You have to "toggle" it off.
... You have to spread the slot at the bottom of the lever that clamps to the trans shaft, even if it's only a few Thousandths of an inch. Sears makes a small right angle screwdriver that's straight on one end and Phillips on the other. Buy a couple of them, they break.
... get the straight part of the blade into the lever slot and spread the slot open a litttle. It's not easy, but you have to get it spread a little. The lever should be pretty loose on the shaft.
...This part is hard to explain....You have to use a LIGHT toggle motion on the lever towards the engine. To get the "feel" of the motion, extend your right arm, bend your wrist almost 90* to the left and pretend you're turning a key in the ignition with just your wrist. You have to move the lever out 1/8" to 1/4" and then toggle it back toward the engine. Just keep playing with it, but don't force it. If you have to , open up the slot a little more. It will be frustrating the first time, but it will come off.
... Once you get it off, reverse the motion immediately, to get the feel of what you're doing and put it on again, then take it off again.
...before putting the new longer lever on, open up the slot a little. It's much easier to do off the bike.
... while everything is off...look at how the bevel on the shaft and the small relief cut into the back of the lever to understand how it works coming off and going back on.
... If you're putting the black controls on, the lever is powder coated. You may have to open up the new lever a little extra to get it on and remove some of the coating around the back of the spline opening.
The first time is going to be a little frustrating, but hang in there, it will come off! The hardest part is getting that spline opened up.I can change one now in under 10 minutes.
Good Luck! AL
#94
12-28-2013 | 03:44 PM
Tourer
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 326
Likes: 9
From: Washington
I have to thank you Baracu for posting your thread on how to replace trans shift lever.I installed my forward control kit by cutting the mid control shift lever off behind the inner primary and did not replace the trans lever.Since then ,I have upgraded to the floor board kit which of course includes the forward control kit.Again,I did not change the trans lever and it shifted OK to me.After reading your post,I decided to replace the trans lever with the longer one provided in the kit.It took me all of 10 minutes and I was done.Original lever just pulled off easily and the new lever went right on.What a difference in shifting.Its a little longer throw,but it shifts so much smoother and with little effort and finding neutral is a piece of cake.
Youre lucky Bro! my 2013 superglide wont come out. I was at the place where I removed the bolt with an allen wrench and the lever start to slide easy but because of the inner primary being too close there was not enough room to go all the way out. The lever is up against the inner primary before it clears the shaft. If I have half an inch more clearance, I would have make it. The inner primary must be removed on my bike. I just have to pay them dealer repair shop to do it. Its a good timing because Im coming up for my first 1000m service.
I was able to test ride it with the existing lever and it work fine just that its harder to shift and hard to find neutral. I cant live with that.
This is for the future reference for the brothers out there.
#96
03-18-2014 | 11:27 PM
Road Warrior
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 29
From: Ashburn, VA
#97
03-19-2014 | 12:09 AM
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 39
Likes: 0
From: Chicago
Awesome. Thanks. Sick *** bike!
Itcurt33 the video and this thread made putting my forwards on a breeze. Put it off for months because I thought I was walking into a very tough job. Baracu you da man. If you didn't post about how to get the trans lever off I never would of thought it was possible to get it off. Picked up the 90* flat head today, wiggled it in the old one and boom it poped right off. Thanks guys!
Itcurt33 the video and this thread made putting my forwards on a breeze. Put it off for months because I thought I was walking into a very tough job. Baracu you da man. If you didn't post about how to get the trans lever off I never would of thought it was possible to get it off. Picked up the 90* flat head today, wiggled it in the old one and boom it poped right off. Thanks guys!
Last edited by TheDevo; 03-20-2014 at 11:15 PM.
#98
04-03-2014 | 04:56 PM
Advanced
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 87
Likes: 0
[quote="[I]2013superglideseattle;12135123]Youre lucky Bro! my 2013 superglide wont come out. I was at the place where I removed the bolt with an allen wrench and the lever start to slide easy but because of the inner primary being too close there was not enough room to go all the way out. The lever is up against the inner primary before it clears the shaft."[/i]
I have a 2009 SuperGlide and ordered the HD forwards (49080-06a) from New Castle HD yesterday. After reading on this forum about the ability to change the tranny shift lever without removing the primary and looking at mine I thought "BS. It is too tight." Last night I stripped everything off for the install except of course for that shift lever. I decided to try the forwards with the stock lever realizing I would probably have to eventually pull the primary. So today, after making a list of replacement parts (gaskets, o-ring, locking tabs, etc.) I needed, I thought what the Hell...nothing ventured....I have a work table and I can work on my rides in good light, level, and about waist high so that is an advantage, I know, but anyway, I snaked a ball-end hex down to the lever screw, broke it loose and removed it, stuck my fingers down along each side of the lever where it resides on the shaft, wiggled it and pulled it tight against the inner primary, pushed it back on just barely, rocked it inside to outside keeping light pressure (towards the tranny) on the top of the lever with my thumb and that damned lever came out of there "slick as a whistle". I re-installed/uninstalled it several times easily. This entire task took less than 5 minutes. So...I came back in, threw my list away and decided to post this. Those guys that say they've done it...well I may not believe them but I know I did it! (Come on UPS!!!)
I have a 2009 SuperGlide and ordered the HD forwards (49080-06a) from New Castle HD yesterday. After reading on this forum about the ability to change the tranny shift lever without removing the primary and looking at mine I thought "BS. It is too tight." Last night I stripped everything off for the install except of course for that shift lever. I decided to try the forwards with the stock lever realizing I would probably have to eventually pull the primary. So today, after making a list of replacement parts (gaskets, o-ring, locking tabs, etc.) I needed, I thought what the Hell...nothing ventured....I have a work table and I can work on my rides in good light, level, and about waist high so that is an advantage, I know, but anyway, I snaked a ball-end hex down to the lever screw, broke it loose and removed it, stuck my fingers down along each side of the lever where it resides on the shaft, wiggled it and pulled it tight against the inner primary, pushed it back on just barely, rocked it inside to outside keeping light pressure (towards the tranny) on the top of the lever with my thumb and that damned lever came out of there "slick as a whistle". I re-installed/uninstalled it several times easily. This entire task took less than 5 minutes. So...I came back in, threw my list away and decided to post this. Those guys that say they've done it...well I may not believe them but I know I did it! (Come on UPS!!!)
Last edited by ojgp; 04-03-2014 at 04:58 PM. Reason: typo
#99
04-07-2015 | 10:06 PM
Just checked again..still no leaks! I did this mod and made this video last year and I haven't had any issues at all.
I never did find that part number but it really doesn't matter. If you put the small paper gasket thing in between the spline holes, assuming you took it apart, line up the spline holes and bolt it on right then there should be no leaks. If you get a leak your gasket is either defective or it fell down in your primary when re-assembling. I had the primary apart for inspection and cleaning. It was my first time looking at the guts on this bike.
Your best bet is to NOT TAKE THE PRIMARY COVER OFF...just cut, remove, install and go!
Who all has done this mod using this video? Show of hands! Any problems?
I never did find that part number but it really doesn't matter. If you put the small paper gasket thing in between the spline holes, assuming you took it apart, line up the spline holes and bolt it on right then there should be no leaks. If you get a leak your gasket is either defective or it fell down in your primary when re-assembling. I had the primary apart for inspection and cleaning. It was my first time looking at the guts on this bike.
Your best bet is to NOT TAKE THE PRIMARY COVER OFF...just cut, remove, install and go!
Who all has done this mod using this video? Show of hands! Any problems?
