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  #11  
Old 05-13-2011, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by O-Town D
"...there are two different "idle" adjustment screws on the carb, one is the idle AF mixture and one is just the idle speed. So I should be ok to tweak the idle speed screw without messing up my AF ratio that I just paid to have adjusted correctly?"

Hey, Apollo!

1400 rpm idle speed on your motor is definitely too high and needs to be turned down a bit. You don't mention what carb you're running, but if it's the OEM CV carb, then adjusting the idle speed is fairly easy - turn the idle adj screw (the phillips screw near where the throttle cables attach to the side of the carb) counterclockwise til you reach the desired speed. You may not have to remove the A/C if you use a long-handled screw-driver. The lower idle speed might even help shifting into 1st gear - less of a clunk.

The A/F mixture screw is much harder to get to (it's at the bottom of the CV carb and you have to use a mirror and tiny screwdriver to get to it), but if your shop has properly done the fine-tuning you probably don't need to mess with it anyway. Hope that helps. Ride safe.

+1 on that, the higher idle will make shifting harder. You are probably about 600 RPM too high when warm. Make sure you adjust when the motor is good and warm.
 
  #12  
Old 05-13-2011, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Good_Apollo
So if I am understanding correctly from what I have read, there are two different "idle" adjustment screws on the carb, one is the idle AF mixture and one is just the idle speed. So I should be ok to tweak the idle speed screw without messing up my AF ratio that I just paid to have adjusted correctly?
The idle speed screw and idle AF screw work in combination. If one is adjusted it will change the other. The shop may have adjusted the carb but they may not have done it right. Your bike has a high idle, which could be caused by a rich idle AF ratio OR the idle screw is in too far OR a little of both.

If the shop set your idle AF ratio at 1400rpm and you adjust it down it will be running rich and the AF screw will need adjusted. Tuning a carb is not as easy as turning a screw in and out until it runs "good". Its also not that hard, spend some time reading about carb tuning and adjust it yourself as it will need adjusted periodically as you use the bike.

Hope you get it figured out.
 
  #13  
Old 05-13-2011, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris07STBOB
The idle speed screw and idle AF screw work in combination. If one is adjusted it will change the other. The shop may have adjusted the carb but they may not have done it right. Your bike has a high idle, which could be caused by a rich idle AF ratio OR the idle screw is in too far OR a little of both.

If the shop set your idle AF ratio at 1400rpm and you adjust it down it will be running rich and the AF screw will need adjusted. Tuning a carb is not as easy as turning a screw in and out until it runs "good". Its also not that hard, spend some time reading about carb tuning and adjust it yourself as it will need adjusted periodically as you use the bike.

Hope you get it figured out.

Cool, I am going out of town on business tomorrow morning, but will take a crack at all the adjustments when I return. I guess I will find out if they actually tuned the AF ratio when I see if the metal plug is still covering the hole for the screw or not
 
  #14  
Old 05-13-2011, 08:57 AM
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I find my shifter tempermental. Some days I have no problems, other days I need to make sure I take my foot completely off the shifter to let it grab the next gear before I shift again.

I disagree that when they changed the tires they didn't do anything else. An overtighten drive belt will cause problems. They probably adjusted it when they put the wheel back on.
 
  #15  
Old 05-13-2011, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Blaster
I find my shifter tempermental. Some days I have no problems, other days I need to make sure I take my foot completely off the shifter to let it grab the next gear before I shift again.

I disagree that when they changed the tires they didn't do anything else. An overtighten drive belt will cause problems. They probably adjusted it when they put the wheel back on.
But the shifting is actually better after the tire/wheel swap, not worse.
 
  #16  
Old 05-13-2011, 05:55 PM
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Interesting discovery. Came home and took a look at the carb, and the idle mixture screw plug is still in place! The screw has NEVER been adjusted, which was probably why it was running bad in the first place because the first owner put SE air cleaner and pipes on it and the carb was not tweaked.

So I called the shop that supposedly adjusted it for me, and talked directly to the Mechanic, he said he defintley did not mess with the AF mixture, and only adjusted the idle since it seemed low. Turns out it was a cold day when he worked on it and really didn't warm it up long enough to get accurate results. Gonna drop it back off next Saturday and they will pull the plug and adjust it for me free of charge...the shop has been awesome to deal with so far, real cool guys. I'm going to have them throw on one of those EZ adjust screws for the AF mixture so it will be easier for me to tweak myself in the future.
 
  #17  
Old 05-14-2011, 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Good_Apollo
But the shifting is actually better after the tire/wheel swap, not worse.
Sorry, I wasn't clear with what I meant. I was saying maybe the belt was too tight when you took the bike in. When they put the tire back on they adjusted it correctly.
 
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