Will I need a tuner, with VH slip ons and stage 1 ac
#22
But the back pressure is from the mufflers and not the pipes. Do yourself a favor and go to the nightrider site and call them.
#24
Since these are closed looped systems you should not have to worry about changing, adding or remapping. Think about the companies selling the power commanders, think they are going to say you don't need one? Or the dealer who all they want is your money (which isn't to say all dealers are this way)
new strange and alien technology.Given the fact that GM(and others)have used closed loop EFI since at least 1985, the web was full of
information from people who have a long time ago figured out alot of the mystery. Long before there was a usable internet.
To the point-As a rule of thumb the 25-year-old EFI system GM used is capable of adjusting to any and all "bolt-ons". This
includes changing intake manifold parts, headers+cat backs w/out a re-map. The only time you should tune the ECM is when you do
heads/cam/injector size or stroker, etc.
It's hard to believe that, in 2007-2011 HD has such a primitive ECM that it can't adjust to a simple intake/exhaust mod. I agree
w/some of the posters that a re-map is useful in some cases. I use a a Power Programmer on my stock 2005 Tahoe for more HP(92 gas) or for
economy when on long trips(87 gas), towing too.
I understand that for some HD riders EFI is a strange and wonder-full thing. Uncharted territory. ALIEN!!! This was the case for
guys w/EFI cars in the mid 80s & early 90s. Remeber "chips"(EPROM) for 5.0 Mustangs or Mitsubishi 3000GT, etc?
My take from all my research is that the Harley ECM should adjust enough for simple intake/exhaust mod. Considering that HD
motors run lean to begin with, the above mentioned XEIDs is a good move. On my TPI equiped Firebird I used an adjustable fuel
pressure regulator. This manually fine-tunes the Air Fuel Ratio to a degree.
The dealer is not your friend. Take what they tell you w/a grain of salt. Always ask to be kissed before you're f*cked, etc...
#26
#27
i have V&H slip ons and got the stage 1 air cleaner, the motor was running so hot that it was burning my thighs sitting at red lights here in the middle of mississippi summers. went and got the stage 1 download from my dealer and it runs a hell of alot cooler now. i could sit though the same redlight twice and the temps wont rise. NO ONE can dispute that the cooler the engine runs the longer it will last.
the choice is yours. and i know its not cheap either with tuner or dealer download, my only reget is waiting so long to get my download.
the choice is yours. and i know its not cheap either with tuner or dealer download, my only reget is waiting so long to get my download.
#29
I've been interested in this subject for a while now and will share my recent experience.
I have a new 2011 Fat bob and ordered V&H short shots w/ quiet baffles, SE Heavy Breather and SE Pro Super Tuner to install myself. The install went smooth, but when I went to load the map through the software provided, it kept crashing on me. I wasn't going to install the stock exhaust and A/C back on the bike, and being new I was itching to ride it. I put about 150 miles on the bike with the upgraded exhaust and A/C and NO tune. The bike ran just fine.
I finally got it to the dealer to get a dyno tune because I wanted my Air fuel ratio to be in the 13s (mainly to run cooler, extend life, and eek out as much performance as possible). I'm fortunate to live in an area that has one of the best dyno tuners in the country working at the local HD dealer. (Dyno Dave at Docs Harley in St. Louis)
The interesting thing that came out of my dyno tune was the base map that they ran. This was my upgraded exhaust and A/C but with the stock ECM configuration. The A/F ratio was at the same levels all they way through the RPM range as if I had Stock exhaust and A/C.
So, in short, the ECM will correct the A/F ratio. However, without a tune you will still be up around stock 14.6 - 14.8 A/F ratio, which is pretty lean.
Take all of this for what it's worth. I am no professional mechanic or tuner by any means. I had seen this topic discussed at length, before I even bought the upgrades, so I knew what questions to ask my tuner.
I have a new 2011 Fat bob and ordered V&H short shots w/ quiet baffles, SE Heavy Breather and SE Pro Super Tuner to install myself. The install went smooth, but when I went to load the map through the software provided, it kept crashing on me. I wasn't going to install the stock exhaust and A/C back on the bike, and being new I was itching to ride it. I put about 150 miles on the bike with the upgraded exhaust and A/C and NO tune. The bike ran just fine.
I finally got it to the dealer to get a dyno tune because I wanted my Air fuel ratio to be in the 13s (mainly to run cooler, extend life, and eek out as much performance as possible). I'm fortunate to live in an area that has one of the best dyno tuners in the country working at the local HD dealer. (Dyno Dave at Docs Harley in St. Louis)
The interesting thing that came out of my dyno tune was the base map that they ran. This was my upgraded exhaust and A/C but with the stock ECM configuration. The A/F ratio was at the same levels all they way through the RPM range as if I had Stock exhaust and A/C.
So, in short, the ECM will correct the A/F ratio. However, without a tune you will still be up around stock 14.6 - 14.8 A/F ratio, which is pretty lean.
Take all of this for what it's worth. I am no professional mechanic or tuner by any means. I had seen this topic discussed at length, before I even bought the upgrades, so I knew what questions to ask my tuner.
#30
You leave the exhaust alone. Only have to unplug the wire harnesses for the front and rear o2 sensors. Connect the xieds,and reconnect the harnesses.The job is a piece of .