The attached photo shows my basic stubborn fastener removal kit. The impact driver w/ the correct quality bit (used after some Aerokroil penetrant has been allowed to soak in) will save a bunch of cocking around w/ drills and EZ-Outs, after the head has been mangled by improper technique. The force of the hammer blow drives the bit into the bottom of the fastener's recess, assuring full contact and avoiding cam-out, protecting the fastener.

Note: The torch and big hammer are for intimidation purposes and for particularly troublesome jobs.

 

I actually have a 1/2" impact gun that I use just for stuck, stripped, rusted, or otherwise defunct fasteners. #3 Phillips are particularly troublesome for some metric bike owners as a) they don't know that there is a difference between a #2 and #3 head and b) some of them don't belong in a garage holding tools in the first place.

Anyways, someone makes a 1/4" bit holder for a 1/2" impact gun... works awesome... even on some of the heads that I think "there is no way this is coming out".

I thought I'd chime in with "don't fear the impact".

 

Someone once told me to use an electric soldering gun to heat and loosen loctited fasteners. Never tried it but what do you think?

 

I read a tip a while back about two guys contemplating how to remove a red Loctited bolt. Before they could do any harm the one guy's wife comes out to the garage and suggests they apply some Loctite. They did and the bolt came out as if it were finger tight.

I guess the fresh Loctite dissolved the old Loctite's hold.

It wasn't mentioned what particular type of Loctite they used, but I would try the green penetrating type, designed to be applied to an already torqued bolt. I have a tube of 290 green that would work and it does a good job of locking my obnoxiously rotating forward control floorboards.

 

new bike? new paint?..looks great love that blue.
And yea proper torx bolt with a hammer behind it works for me