True Trak for a Dyna Fat Bob
#31
09-16-2011, 01:11 PM
Ultimate HDF Member
Here's my bike with the True Track installed. The tool bag just rests on top of it.
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#32
09-16-2011, 06:38 PM
Road Warrior
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
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#33
10-20-2011, 11:50 AM
About the vibration issue, I installed the TT on my 2008 Fat Bob at the same time I had my 15,000 mi service done. I also replaced the engine mounts at the same time and put progressive springs in the front end. The handling improved greatly in turns (TT) and I really don't know how I survived (literally) with them cheap Moco springs up front. Weird thing is I have LOST a ton of vibration. A TON. Almost like (gulp) riding an import. Tell you the truth, I miss that vibration. I hit the throttle, feel like the response is weak and look down at the speedo and see that I haven't lost any power at all - the damn thing just doesn't shake itself to death getting up to speed.
#34
10-21-2011, 09:32 AM
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#35
10-22-2011, 04:07 PM
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I took my 2012 WG to HD to have it checked and they said it's not a Sportster and the ride is different. It sucks in the turns. On the WG I can hold the rear tire with my right hand and push the fender strut, the tire/swingarm moves left and right. On the Sportster the tire wont move. I think the side to side is the flat tire feel. Does the TT stop the side to side sway?
#36
10-22-2011, 04:26 PM
Club Member
I took my 2012 WG to HD to have it checked and they said it's not a Sportster and the ride is different. It sucks in the turns. On the WG I can hold the rear tire with my right hand and push the fender strut, the tire/swingarm moves left and right. On the Sportster the tire wont move. I think the side to side is the flat tire feel. Does the TT stop the side to side sway?
A T-T kit provides the same type of stabilizer to your Dyna, plus another for the front. That same Sporty has one up there too! Fit a T-T to your WG and your rear wheel will no longer be able to 'walk'.
Hope that helps!
#37
10-22-2011, 05:20 PM
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#38
10-27-2011, 05:24 PM
Cruiser
I just went for a 20 mile test ride after installing the True-Track on my Fat Bob. It made a huge difference. I went through a set of somewhat rough curves that had always made the bike feel a little squirrely and unpredictable. I was able to put the bike where I wanted it and it stayed there. I held my line all the way through the curves, even through the rough spots, and the bike felt stable and predictable.
As far as increased vibration, the only possible difference I felt was in the pegs. I didn't notice that until I was just about home. Could be my imagination. I was enjoying the ride and wasn't really thinking about it. I'll pay closer attention next time.
As far as increased vibration, the only possible difference I felt was in the pegs. I didn't notice that until I was just about home. Could be my imagination. I was enjoying the ride and wasn't really thinking about it. I'll pay closer attention next time.
#39
10-28-2011, 01:39 AM
Club Member
I didn't try with my Dyna, when I fitted a T-T kit to it, but I did ride my Glide with and without the extra stabilizer link, out of curiosity. I could tell the difference through the bike, by a change of sensation, but not what I would call vibration. I have now done around 15k miles with my T-T kits and they are fine!
#40
10-28-2011, 06:56 AM
I drag my forward pegs, boot heels, and pipes all the time on my 2009 FatBob. I dragged w/ stock shocks and progressive 412's. For me its no big deal I just keep the cheap stock pegs on and as they get to bad I change em out. For the pipes I dont mind putting on a spark show at night 
RatBob
Yeah I started out with it on the side stand, but I did get to wondering if that was skewing things. I loosened up the bottom bolt until it was just started. A piece of 2x4 and a book the size of the manual underneath the kickstand levelled the bike out and I tied it off with a tiedown to one of my dirt bikes to keep it from falling over on the right side. Just like somethin from Jackass!
I tried to buy that aluminum bike lift that was on sale at harbor freight, but they were out of em. so this was funky, but it worked. I tried tweakin the motor in the frame with a wood lever, still tight. Glad we finally got the thing in there, but it was definately fighting the mount.
Romeo - You bet I polished it 1st! I was real glad I saw your write up before I did this, your pictures were the ones that unfogged me as to where the thing was supposed to go. I'm a Fire Capt at an oil refinery, so I took the thing into the machine shop here and put some heat on it with the polishing wheel. Glad I did, thanks for the idea
Rusty/Big Daddy
It feels. . different, it just feels tight like it should to me now. I havn't noticed anything that I didn't like vibration wise. Shifting feels more clicky now, less delay then a whump like before. I havn't gotten it up to 90 on a highway yet though.
I'm really glad one of my buds from work tipped me on to this problem. It was kind of vague to diagnose at first. Like I said it felt as if the back tire was low or something. I wanted to be happy about the bike cause I'd just paid 12 grand for it, but i just was hard to get s ure feeling for what was going to happen next in a corner. I was going through corners wider than I would because I just didn't feel right unrolling the bike? It felt like I couldn't whip it much cause something was floaty? Next I was thinking maybe the front end was a bit loose - no fall off was fine, no clunking FE bearings when braking and they weren't too tight.
The first couple times I had my wife on the back of it it felt like she was bouncing around back there and wrong on the weight. I thought maybe she was rusty, but when I turned to look at her she was just sitting on it normal. When I was telling this stuff to my buddy at work he said that with a passenger is when it's most noticeable and what the cause was. That was his biggest clue into figuring out what I was talking about. (Dealerships and others looked at me like I was telling them how I'd met some Aliens on the way over)
I'm just really glad I got this figured out, it makes a world of difference to me riding the bike now. This FB is my 1st Harley, though I've ridden all kinds (no Gold wings! ) of other types of bikes all my life.
Next step - Bike has center controls. Needs forward ones. I was thinking about the Kuris cause I dont want to pull the primary off and remove the old shift point. My only worry is that I drag the left footpeg sometimes now in some turns. So far havn't dragged the pipe on a right. I don't ride super aggresive, but I do ride. I'm worried that the forward controls will hit the street even earlier. Anyone know for sure? If so I wonder if I can figure a way to mount them a wee bit higher somehow with a spacer. . or cut em back a little shorter. .
next next step - Fuel mapping for the EFI. Bike feels a wee lean. I'm in California, so it probably is. SST or something like that I was reading about on here, looked like the way.
Yeah I started out with it on the side stand, but I did get to wondering if that was skewing things. I loosened up the bottom bolt until it was just started. A piece of 2x4 and a book the size of the manual underneath the kickstand levelled the bike out and I tied it off with a tiedown to one of my dirt bikes to keep it from falling over on the right side. Just like somethin from Jackass!
I tried to buy that aluminum bike lift that was on sale at harbor freight, but they were out of em. so this was funky, but it worked. I tried tweakin the motor in the frame with a wood lever, still tight. Glad we finally got the thing in there, but it was definately fighting the mount.Romeo - You bet I polished it 1st! I was real glad I saw your write up before I did this, your pictures were the ones that unfogged me as to where the thing was supposed to go. I'm a Fire Capt at an oil refinery, so I took the thing into the machine shop here and put some heat on it with the polishing wheel. Glad I did, thanks for the idea
Rusty/Big Daddy
It feels. . different, it just feels tight like it should to me now. I havn't noticed anything that I didn't like vibration wise. Shifting feels more clicky now, less delay then a whump like before. I havn't gotten it up to 90 on a highway yet though.
I'm really glad one of my buds from work tipped me on to this problem. It was kind of vague to diagnose at first. Like I said it felt as if the back tire was low or something. I wanted to be happy about the bike cause I'd just paid 12 grand for it, but i just was hard to get s ure feeling for what was going to happen next in a corner. I was going through corners wider than I would because I just didn't feel right unrolling the bike? It felt like I couldn't whip it much cause something was floaty? Next I was thinking maybe the front end was a bit loose - no fall off was fine, no clunking FE bearings when braking and they weren't too tight.
The first couple times I had my wife on the back of it it felt like she was bouncing around back there and wrong on the weight. I thought maybe she was rusty, but when I turned to look at her she was just sitting on it normal. When I was telling this stuff to my buddy at work he said that with a passenger is when it's most noticeable and what the cause was. That was his biggest clue into figuring out what I was talking about. (Dealerships and others looked at me like I was telling them how I'd met some Aliens on the way over)
I'm just really glad I got this figured out, it makes a world of difference to me riding the bike now. This FB is my 1st Harley, though I've ridden all kinds (no Gold wings!
) of other types of bikes all my life.Next step - Bike has center controls. Needs forward ones. I was thinking about the Kuris cause I dont want to pull the primary off and remove the old shift point. My only worry is that I drag the left footpeg sometimes now in some turns. So far havn't dragged the pipe on a right. I don't ride super aggresive, but I do ride. I'm worried that the forward controls will hit the street even earlier. Anyone know for sure? If so I wonder if I can figure a way to mount them a wee bit higher somehow with a spacer. . or cut em back a little shorter. .
next next step - Fuel mapping for the EFI. Bike feels a wee lean. I'm in California, so it probably is. SST or something like that I was reading about on here, looked like the way.
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