Kury Forward Controls
#1
#2
Oh, one precaution to take! If the bolts EVER start to bind, chase the threads with good taps and dies. Mine bolted up perfectly, but other similar bolt-on aftermarket parts had fasteners that would bind and snap. Now I check all fitments to make sure that the chroming or machining doesn't interfere with the threads.
#5
I just put them on my 2011 SGC. Here are the things that stick out from when I did the install...
1. The rubber spacer on my shifter shaft was too thick to allow the chrome cap to go on far enough for the set screw to fall into the notch...I had to sand that rubber spacer down about .050", and I still had to push HARD on it to get the set screw to clear the splines.
2. The bolts holding the peg mounts to the mounting plates weren't very tight. I removed them, added some loctite, and torqued them back down. BE SURE you check these bolts. The instructions DO say to do this, if you read them. The right side bolt is a LEFT-HANDED (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty) thread. Don't take everything apart and mix the screws up!
3. The tie-rod end on the forward end of the shift rod doesn't thread into the hole on the arm. It just slips through and is held on by a locknut. But the hole is a real sloppy fit...the hole is at least .025" bigger in diameter than the OD of the tie rod stud. I wrapped a piece of .010" stainless shim stock around the tie rod stud to get it a little less sloppy in the hole. It probably doesn't matter as long as the locknut doesn't come loose, but I was disappointed to see such a sloppy fit here.
I'm just using the stock foot pegs for now. I'm trying to decide what I want to replace them with. I'd like to try pegs with heel rests, but I'm not sure which ones at this time.
Art
1. The rubber spacer on my shifter shaft was too thick to allow the chrome cap to go on far enough for the set screw to fall into the notch...I had to sand that rubber spacer down about .050", and I still had to push HARD on it to get the set screw to clear the splines.
2. The bolts holding the peg mounts to the mounting plates weren't very tight. I removed them, added some loctite, and torqued them back down. BE SURE you check these bolts. The instructions DO say to do this, if you read them. The right side bolt is a LEFT-HANDED (righty-loosey, lefty-tighty) thread. Don't take everything apart and mix the screws up!
3. The tie-rod end on the forward end of the shift rod doesn't thread into the hole on the arm. It just slips through and is held on by a locknut. But the hole is a real sloppy fit...the hole is at least .025" bigger in diameter than the OD of the tie rod stud. I wrapped a piece of .010" stainless shim stock around the tie rod stud to get it a little less sloppy in the hole. It probably doesn't matter as long as the locknut doesn't come loose, but I was disappointed to see such a sloppy fit here.
I'm just using the stock foot pegs for now. I'm trying to decide what I want to replace them with. I'd like to try pegs with heel rests, but I'm not sure which ones at this time.
Art
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