about to change the handlebars on 2008 fxd anything to watch out for like things falling out of the switch housings or can you simply slide the levers and housings off of one bar and on to the other would like to know from some of the people here that have changed there own bars. what is the best way to handle this job or any shortcuts they would suggest. I have seen alot of bars for sale with the one handgrip left on. and would like to know if that is some kind of short cut. thanks for replys tom

 

You should not need to separate the controls, just loosen the screws and slip them off.

The trick on getting the left grip off is to inject soap under the grip, and roll it off the bar. Pry it up with a screw driver, and pour some Dawn in there.

Most that change bars, change grips too. I bought dual gel grips for $15. My stock bar still has the OEM grip on it.

Make darn sure before you take it a part, your cables are long enough for your new bars.

 

You'll be fine, it's very simple. The left hand grip is glued to the handlebar (not difficult to break the seal, gently stick a thin flat head screwdriver between the bar and the grip and then twist the grip to break seal) which is why some people leave that grip on. One thing to look for when changing bars is whether it has the holes to run internal wiring or the dents in the bars in order for the wires to pass under the housings. The dents are just that, the are dents in the bars for the wires to pass under the housing. If it has the holes, you pretty much have to have the wires ran through them...but some people don't. If you do not, then you run the risk of pinching the wires with the housing. This is because the holes in the bars are about 1/2 an inch further out than the dents would be. The holes are placed there so that they are not seen when the grips/housings are installed. The dents run passed the housing because the wires are tucked inside the dents.
Other than that, just make sure you have the correct length of wires/cables for the size of bars you are putting on.
Tips: Loosen the handle bars so that you can move them but no need to take them completly off until the components are off. Keep track of the screws. Cover your tank with a towel. No need to remove your mirrors or turn signals. Try to keep your throttle grip/housing as a single unit (if you are keeping the stock grips), loosen the screws good and it should slide off easily, the left side needs to be separated due to the glue stated above. Use an adhesive when reinstalling the left grip (if you're putting the stock one back on) if you don't it will twist like the throttle...). Take your time, you'll do great.

 

That has to be the best tip of the day, replace the stock grips.

 

You don't need to separate the right switch housing. Just loosen the torx screws enough to slide it off. You can open up the left side, nothing will fall out. Well, nothing SHOULD fall out. If you get a set of bars with the stock left grip on that will save some trouble, as long as you're using the stock throttle grip.

 

When you do change the bars, dont forget the simple things like covering your tank. If something happens to fall, the tank is the first target.

 

Doing this soon myself...thought for some reason that I had to do something with the master cylinder...good to know that's not the case.

 

I have learned to park the bike on a sheet. So when I disassemble the throttle and the little brass ***** fall out I can find the little boogers. I also lay a large beach towel over the tank. What can hit the tank will hit the tank. I have had both good and bad luck guessin weather I needed to extend the control wires and cables. Most of the time I have been able to move them in our out of the tree to get a little extra room. The turn signal lights can be moved down to the fork spreader with $20 ? HD kit. if you need to extend the control wires "buy the kit" read the instructions and use a dig camera or make a pin drawing to make sure you know where the pins go when you reassemble them. If you got to buy a new brake line just do it. the secret to bleeding the brake line is to fill the master cyl. with the lid off open the bleed until brake fluid comes out of the calipar. close the bleed screw. Top off the master cyl and then slowly squeeze the brake lever until you build up pressure. Note that I said with the master cyl lid off. it being the highest position on the bike allows air to do what it does best. work its way up and out. Once the pressure is back, top it off again and replace the master cyl lid. Other than that its easy. Good luck

 

The beach towel on the tank is a good idea. Put one between the forks and cover the fender also, that whole gravity thang.

 

Take your time, rushing only leads to mistakes!!! If you have questions during the process, ask them, there is allot on knowledge within the members of this forum.