thedonthere
this was the kit
http://www.automotivemachine.com/ima...cs/working.png

 

The Cycle Rama .575 has a 35* intake close and works well with stock compression. The R&R 525 has the same specs as the 37's but with a little more lift. If you're using your stock push rods the .030HG is only a few bolts away and the extra .25:1 compression was worth it to me.

 

It will still give you a bit of performance, but will really wake things up after headwork or a thinner head gasket.

Are you planning on using adjustable pushrods or pulling the rockers off? If pulling the rockers, as mentioned by Paul S you are only 4 bolts away from pulling the heads off. Really, pulling the head off is no big deal at all. It is an air pump basically, no liquid like a car. If the head gasket blows out, you will know it, shut her down, pull it apart and replace the gasket...Done deal, no engine damage.

 

For you IMO that kit is a waste of money. 06 bikes have a much more reliable tensioner system than the earlier twin cams. If you order that kit and pull your bike apart and find the crank has a lot of runout, you may not be able to run the gear drive cams until you get your crank fixed. IMO not worth the time, money or effort. Stick with the factory style tensioners the 06 and up bikes have. Many guys are running them in 120+hp bikes.

We did Joe Knapps bike last year for about 2/3 that price, but I sold him my jugs and pistons pretty cheap.

132.25 22851-99A 95" cast flat top pistons
241.44 0925-0115 Andrews 37H cams for 06 and up dyna
114.60 17997-99A SE quick install pushrods
101.99 C9844 Cometic 1550 top end gasket kit .030
150.00 Bore cylinders?? Depends on your machine shop

740.28 Total

300.00 Basic headwork (will get you really close to 100/100)

1040.28 total for a 100hp 95" twin cam!


You mentioned your weight in the OP (165 and wife 100). I weigh 250 and my wife 130. It still pulled really hard and would pass semi's with ease. I actually ran a 12.7 quarter mile on my 95" with no shift light, no tach. You would in theroy be able to match those times WITH your wife on the back!

 

Compression is key with cams that have more overlap. Most people view adding compression as just that, adding compression, when in reality you are restoring lost compression that's going out the exhaust. Adding more overlap while maintaing a stock compression is just a formula for poor performance, unless you can do the project correctly or simply find a way to correct the compression on a budget I'd leave the cam swap alone.

 

that price is not so bad
what other costs would I have to do it, I am not an engine builder but i have a manual, tools, and can follow directions.
stock lifters, springs
Would i need the andrews cam change kit, and I assume I would need to take it to a good tuner afterwards

If I had a complete parts list I could buy it allittle at a time

 

Also I would rather have my heads and jugs done local if there is anyone who could make a suggestion close to San Antonio

 

Believe it or not, that list is pretty complete. The cometic gasket comes with tons of gaskets! Reusing lifters wont destroy your engine, but if you want to replace them, the factory lifters are about $100. Springs would be fine with the 37.

 

I checked out Woods and Andrews when I was looking for cams and got the feeling that they pretty much didn't care to answer my questions.

I ran across Fueling Reaper with a 525, 574 and another lift and called them.

Wow, they answered ever question, gave advise, asked about what I had planned and what I wanted.

I wanted something mild and figured the 525 would be about right but I was advised by the guys at Fueling that I would be happier with the 574 as it will come on as low as 1500 RPM and still be working through 5000 plus, Might have been 6000 but I forget.

My heads have 1.90 intake and 1.63 exhaust and have been ported, polished, flow tested, big a$$ springs.

95 inch jugs with 10.25/1 piston, added Fueling Race Roller Lifters to the mix as well as a SE Super Turner.

Karsten

 

+1 the 54H should work well