Howdee all. Am installing new pads on the rear of my 06 SuperGlide. Got the inboard pads on OK, but the service manual says to not pull the pins all the way out until the rear pads are held between the pistons and caliper. However, when I pump the brake, the only pistons that seem to move are the outboard ones and the inboard pads will fall out if I completely remove the pins. Any thoughts on why those inboard pistons are not moving? The old inboard pad is well worn, so I don't think there is a caliper problem, or at least wasn't. Can I just remove the pins and install the inboards after the outboard pads are installed? Any alignment hassles? Thank you and do appreciate the help.

 

not exactly sure I'm following. Not sure how you get the pads out without pulling the pins. I would just pull the pins put the new pads on and put the pins back in torqued to specs, bleed them if you need to then pump them to make sure they engage properly. Done...

 

I believe the rear brakes are Two Piston. Two pistons on one side only compress the pads together. I think. At least, they're that way on a lot of cars. I'd have to look but that's my guess.

 

Rear caliper on the 06/07 is a fixed 4 piston.
It can be difficult to compress all 4 pistons back into the caliper evenly on both sides at the same time and get both pads in. So what they want you to do is to pry the pistons back on the inside first, r + r the inboard pad, loosely install the pins, pump up the pedal to push the pistons back out to hold the new inboard pad in place, pry the outboard pad back to compress the pistons (which will also aid in holding the inboard pad in place, pull the pins, r+r the outboard pad, install the pins, torque and pump up the pedal. Done.

I would also recommend bleeding the fluid at every pad change. The fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and this will help prevent corrosion in the system, especially those who store or can't ride during the winter months.

08' up rear caliper is a floating 2 piston caliper.

CB

 

Thank you all. I'm going to shim that inboard with something before I remove the outboard pads and hope I can line everything up and get the pistons retracted.

 

Why don't you just do it like the manual tells you too, like what I wrote?
CB

 

Sounds like a good way to do it.....

 

Thanks for the clarification. I sit corrected.

On cars, we always pop the Master Cylinder cap so that when we compress the caliper pistons, there's room for the brake fluid to back up into the M/C reservoir.

Is it the same thing for bikes?

 

Yes, it says to do this in the manual.

 

It is probably a good idea, but if you have never added fluid then the level should be ok.
That said, I think it is a good idea to replace the old fluid with new at pad changes. I would just leave the cap on, if you have never added fluid, r+r the pads as recommended above. Then, if you are working on a lift, rest the bike on the jiffy, pull the cap on the master and bleed the system several times, through 5 or 6 full reservoirs, to change all the fluid out (DOT 4 synthetic). The bike needs to be on the jiffy to level the master out in order to set the proper level and to keep it from spilling over when you take the cap off! A small funnel with a long spout really helps out to fill the reservoir, clear tube on the bleeder valve and a vacuum pump brake bleeder really, really helps bleed the system.

Note!!! When you re-install the cap you only need to snug the screws finger tight, spec is like 6 "inch" pounds, otherwise you will distort the gasket and cause a leak around the gasket. I take a squirt bottle with water and wash down everything around the master and caliper to get any brake fluid off of the painted surfaces.

CB

The reason to pop the top off is to allow the rubber bladder in the cap to be pushed back and to allow for fluid expansion, especially if someone has topped off the master when the fluid was low do to pad wear. I don't see where the rubber bladder on the H-D cap expands as the fluid level drops like in many cars.