Need some advice before the bike goes to shop
#12
Either you must have had it running or your meter is wrong. Most you are going to see out of a battery after setting to stabilize form a full charge is 12.6 volts. Your bike being a 2010 has good plugs and I doubt they are loose. The voltage you showed in your first post is showing its charging and hooked up good. What I was trying to telling you is it takes a lot of riding to keep a battery charged. Say your battery is in a state of 50% charged at 11.9-12. volts when motor is off. Then you will see the head light pulse when you slow down since the alternator is fairly small and only puts out a full charge at +2000 rpm and drops off slightly at idle rpm. If your battery is fully charged to 12.6 volts you do not see this pulse. Whatever you do remember that to put a load test on battery requires the battery to be unhooked to protect the alternator coils and regulator. Been working on these things for 46+ years. I know what I am talking about.
And no on the battery tender. I ride to work everyday 15 min trip each way on the highway.
#13
Fire the bike up, wait a couple of minutes then check the voltage across the battery posts. They will read 14.0-14.2v for the EFI bike. My 05 EFI cranks out this voltage at idle and at speed. Now my 02 carb will idle at 13.1-13.2v and then just above the 2000 rpm it goes up to 14.1-14.2, the regulator will regulate the voltage between the two. Want to say thanks about the voltage rates versus per cent of charge, I'll change my service manual from 12.8=100% to 12.6 =100% and 12.5=75%. Next payday you ought to buy a service manual and learn all about the bike.
#16
Guide lines
Fire the bike up, wait a couple of minutes then check the voltage across the battery posts. They will read 14.0-14.2v for the EFI bike. My 05 EFI cranks out this voltage at idle and at speed. Now my 02 carb will idle at 13.1-13.2v and then just above the 2000 rpm it goes up to 14.1-14.2, the regulator will regulate the voltage between the two. Want to say thanks about the voltage rates versus per cent of charge, I'll change my service manual from 12.8=100% to 12.6 =100% and 12.5=75%. Next payday you ought to buy a service manual and learn all about the bike.
#17
Just went through this with my Dyna. After watching the dealer mechanic run thorugh his "checklist" and then replace the voltage regulator in hopes that that would fix it. I took my battery and battery box out to find the battery connection on the starter and the two main ground connection to the frame had corrosion on them. I cleaned them up, and no more intermittant dimming. And the bike starts faster now also.
Must have been that frog strangling flood I drove home in a couple months ago. I even had water in the horn.
Must have been that frog strangling flood I drove home in a couple months ago. I even had water in the horn.
#18
I would check the battery cables to ensure that they are tight and there is no corrosion as DynaWide42 suggests. Most people will pull the battery cover and only check the cables are tight at the posts. Make sure the other ends are tight at the starter as well as the grounds to the frame. If you do not find anything wrong, and since the bike is new and under warranty you will have to wait for the dealer to diagnose and repair the bike. There is probably either a wiring issue or the charging system is at fault.....Good luck
#19
????
Flood, must have been salt water. Its hard to believe a 2010 bike would have corrosion on the connections. That kind of condition would make good components look bad. If I had a 2010 and there were corrosion on the cables I would be pushing him to replace them. Once this starts it will be back. My bike is an 04 and I have been in numerous down pours and my connections are not corroded. The picture below is my bike an a saltwater creek I live on. I do wipe off paint and chrome with a cotton towel when it gets wet like that if I get the chance but mostly so it's not so spotty when it dries.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 11-04-2010 at 09:56 AM.
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