Brake lights on
#1
#4
Have you been working on the grips lately? If so, the wedge (spring clip) inside the switch housing which holds the brake switch in place could be the problem...
If you open up the housing and try to operate the micro switch check if there is a response from the brake/taillight.
The switch is located as shown in image 2 (p/n 2). Try to adjust the switch's position by bending out the wedge.
Here's how the brake activates the switch:
The pin on the lever (see image 1 p/n 1) pushes the plunger into the brake cylinder when squeezed... at the same time the brake switch which is mounted through the hole (image 2 p/n 3) is being released.
Could be the switch has been damaged. When you work on the brake side follow these instructions:
When you want to take off the lever from the handlebar and insert a piece of 4mm cardboard, the lever is pulled in a little allowing the pin to come off the brake switch's rubber cap. Now the lever can be removed without snagging this rubber cap.
When you re-install the lever, insert the cardboard as well and insert the lever as shown in image 3....
If you do a search for brake switch in the Dyna Models section you'll find some more threads on this subject....
If you open up the housing and try to operate the micro switch check if there is a response from the brake/taillight.
The switch is located as shown in image 2 (p/n 2). Try to adjust the switch's position by bending out the wedge.
Here's how the brake activates the switch:
The pin on the lever (see image 1 p/n 1) pushes the plunger into the brake cylinder when squeezed... at the same time the brake switch which is mounted through the hole (image 2 p/n 3) is being released.
Could be the switch has been damaged. When you work on the brake side follow these instructions:
When you want to take off the lever from the handlebar and insert a piece of 4mm cardboard, the lever is pulled in a little allowing the pin to come off the brake switch's rubber cap. Now the lever can be removed without snagging this rubber cap.
When you re-install the lever, insert the cardboard as well and insert the lever as shown in image 3....
If you do a search for brake switch in the Dyna Models section you'll find some more threads on this subject....
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; 03-27-2014 at 01:15 PM.
#5
Have you been working on the grips lately? If so, the wedge (spring clip) inside the switch housing which holds the brake switch in place could be the problem...
If you open up the housing and try to operate the micro switch check if there is a response from the brake/taillight.
The switch is located as shown in image 2 (p/n 2). Try to adjust the switch's position by bending out the wedge.
Here's how the brake activates the switch:
The pin on the lever (see image 1 p/n 1) pushes the plunger into the brake cylinder when squeezed... at the same time the brake switch which is mounted through the hole (image 2 p/n 3) is being released.
Could be the switch has been damaged. When you work on the brake side follow these instructions:
When you want to take off the lever from the handlebar and insert a piece of 4mm cardboard, the lever is pulled in a little allowing the pin to come off the brake switch's rubber cap. Now the lever can be removed without snagging this rubber cap.
When you re-install the lever, insert the cardboard as well and insert the lever as shown in image 3....
If you do a search for brake switch in the Dyna Models section you'll find some more threads on this subject....
If you open up the housing and try to operate the micro switch check if there is a response from the brake/taillight.
The switch is located as shown in image 2 (p/n 2). Try to adjust the switch's position by bending out the wedge.
Here's how the brake activates the switch:
The pin on the lever (see image 1 p/n 1) pushes the plunger into the brake cylinder when squeezed... at the same time the brake switch which is mounted through the hole (image 2 p/n 3) is being released.
Could be the switch has been damaged. When you work on the brake side follow these instructions:
When you want to take off the lever from the handlebar and insert a piece of 4mm cardboard, the lever is pulled in a little allowing the pin to come off the brake switch's rubber cap. Now the lever can be removed without snagging this rubber cap.
When you re-install the lever, insert the cardboard as well and insert the lever as shown in image 3....
If you do a search for brake switch in the Dyna Models section you'll find some more threads on this subject....
Great pics!! Thanks!! Did some more research and since I DID re-locate my front turn signals this past weekend, my suspisions were correct:....I've broken the tit on the brake switch!! Now I did have the forethought to go ahead and get one($54.95) yet after a quick look this morning at the situation, it doesn't look good. I have internal wiring from the factory....not much room. The first problem is however...how do I properly take the throttle cables loose from the grip? I tried this past weekend to more just one and with no slack, could release one. Moving both and getting room to cut and re-solder switch is definitely needed for me to do the job. If not, then its off to the dealership. With a brief(more than brief) diection, I'm sure I can do it myself. But there has to be a trick to get the cables loose and re-installed without grittin' my teeth not to mess up the cable too. Any help??
Thanks for YOUR continues support!!
Bill
Last edited by billjoat; 10-07-2010 at 05:42 AM.
#6
The cables have an adjustment right below the switch housing. Skin the rubber back ( a drop of oil helps) and loosen both cable adjustments. Then remove the air cleaner cover for access to the induction module and use a pair of needlenose pliers to lift the throttle cable up and out of it's perch. If you still need more slack lift the return cable out of it's perch also.
#7
Update!!
Thanks for the info on removing the cables. I was pretty sure it did involve something down below but wanted to ask before doing. Went back to the garage just now, carefully studied the switch, which still worked just didn't have the flat top hat the new one does. Put the switch housing back together, checking the switch operation at almost every turn of the torx and with everything nice and snug, seems to work fine. A day(or night) or so riding will tell if it is a lasting fix or not. I think I'll keep the switch though....just in case.
Thanks again for the cable info!!
Thanks again for the cable info!!
Trending Topics
#8
#10