Raking my Dyna?
#21
Ok, thanks guys-thanks alot! I've sent HHI an email. I don't know how they stack-up against accutronix but they look great. Had a harley tech tell me recently that accutronix was top notch. I personally don't know. Sounds like I better go 3 degrees and if I go with HHI my tubes will actually be longer because of the hidden spacer at the top. If there are any drawbacks to the bearing cups please let me know because I will probably have them on hand also while tore down. Have a great day and thanks again.
#22
When using the cups, you have to take the longer stem that comes with the cups and have it machined at a machine shop to match the stem that comes with the tree. Not a big deal, and is quick/easy work for a machinist. Using cups increases the spacing between the top and bottom tree by 1 inch.
I didn't get trees....I bought an entire frontend off of eBay for less. Brand New, 41mm wideglide 3 degree rake Rick Doss Waterfall design and it's chrome plated. It was made for a Softail, and the tubes are standard softail length, which is roughly 1.5 inches longer than a Superglide.
~Joe
I didn't get trees....I bought an entire frontend off of eBay for less. Brand New, 41mm wideglide 3 degree rake Rick Doss Waterfall design and it's chrome plated. It was made for a Softail, and the tubes are standard softail length, which is roughly 1.5 inches longer than a Superglide.
~Joe
#23
You will be suprised at the difference 3 degrees will make, I was skeptical until I done it and was more than pleased in the difference. I think the kit was around 600 to my door, but I mine is a wide glide so the mid glide might be a little bit cheaper. And as far as anything out of the norm there wasnt anything, they send everything you would need in the kit.
My current fork is forklegs from a 2006 FXD (49mm) with triple trees made by Tolle Scandinavia (wideglide 250mm c.c) with 4 degree rake. The exact trail in 2,84 inches but my bike handles very nice. 1 inch lowered in the back and also a 21" frontwheel. Before that i had a Tolle made 3 degree rake triple tree with my std 39mm fork parts. The bike also handled very nice with that setup. My first triple tree had a 5 degree rake that I also used with my std 39mm parts. It was terrible and also dangerous to drive. Tolle Scandinavia (a world known company explained the hole thing for me about the rake and what parts to stay away from. The 3 degree triple tree rake will make a big differens in how your bike looks and it also handles better than the original. The 4 degree is closer to the limit and you should be careful with what parts you choose. I hope I have helped you a bit on your way.
#24
Ok, thanks guys-thanks alot! I've sent HHI an email. I don't know how they stack-up against accutronix but they look great. Had a harley tech tell me recently that accutronix was top notch. I personally don't know. Sounds like I better go 3 degrees and if I go with HHI my tubes will actually be longer because of the hidden spacer at the top. If there are any drawbacks to the bearing cups please let me know because I will probably have them on hand also while tore down. Have a great day and thanks again.
Hallo! I am new here and live in Sweden. I have done three triple tree changes on my FXD -03 and would be glad to share my experienses.
My current fork is forklegs from a 2006 FXD (49mm) with triple trees made by Tolle Scandinavia (wideglide 250mm c.c) with 4 degree rake. The exact trail in 2,84 inches but my bike handles very nice. 1 inch lowered in the back and also a 21" frontwheel. Before that i had a Tolle made 3 degree rake triple tree with my std 39mm fork parts. The bike also handled very nice with that setup. My first triple tree had a 5 degree rake that I also used with my std 39mm parts. It was terrible and also dangerous to drive. Tolle Scandinavia (a world known company explained the hole thing for me about the rake and what parts to stay away from. The 3 degree triple tree rake will make a big differens in how your bike looks and it also handles better than the original. The 4 degree is closer to the limit and you should be careful with what parts you choose. I hope I have helped you a bit on your way.
#25
The key to remember here, is that the raked bearing cups change the FRAME RAKE and therefore saves the much needed trail that is reduced by using raked trees/forks. Do a google search for the "rb racing rake trail calculator". Type in the stock 28 degrees for a FXD Superglide, and then add 3 to 31, then try different fork rake figures to see how the trail numbers work.
Also....keep in mind that increasing rake LOWERS the front of the bike....that, is why I got 1.5 inch longer tubes.....1 inch would have been sufficient.
At one time I built a softtail chopper that had a 34 degree head tube and I used 7 degree trees. Scary/wobbly at speeds over 65-70, but looked sweet! Just not practical on a bike that ever sees the highway. In general the handling of the bike changes dramatically, so make sure you take your time and get used to the way things are after the change.
~Joe
Also....keep in mind that increasing rake LOWERS the front of the bike....that, is why I got 1.5 inch longer tubes.....1 inch would have been sufficient.
At one time I built a softtail chopper that had a 34 degree head tube and I used 7 degree trees. Scary/wobbly at speeds over 65-70, but looked sweet! Just not practical on a bike that ever sees the highway. In general the handling of the bike changes dramatically, so make sure you take your time and get used to the way things are after the change.
~Joe
#26
The key to remember here, is that the raked bearing cups change the FRAME RAKE and therefore saves the much needed trail that is reduced by using raked trees/forks. Do a google search for the "rb racing rake trail calculator". Type in the stock 28 degrees for a FXD Superglide, and then add 3 to 31, then try different fork rake figures to see how the trail numbers work.
Also....keep in mind that increasing rake LOWERS the front of the bike....that, is why I got 1.5 inch longer tubes.....1 inch would have been sufficient.
At one time I built a softtail chopper that had a 34 degree head tube and I used 7 degree trees. Scary/wobbly at speeds over 65-70, but looked sweet! Just not practical on a bike that ever sees the highway. In general the handling of the bike changes dramatically, so make sure you take your time and get used to the way things are after the change.
~Joe
Also....keep in mind that increasing rake LOWERS the front of the bike....that, is why I got 1.5 inch longer tubes.....1 inch would have been sufficient.
At one time I built a softtail chopper that had a 34 degree head tube and I used 7 degree trees. Scary/wobbly at speeds over 65-70, but looked sweet! Just not practical on a bike that ever sees the highway. In general the handling of the bike changes dramatically, so make sure you take your time and get used to the way things are after the change.
~Joe
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