88 upgrade w/o going to 95?
#1
88 upgrade w/o going to 95?
I have a 2005 FXDCI, with the 88" and would like to get some more power out of her. Everything I've found through google and through the search function here are for cams and upgrading to 95". I would like to know what I can do without getting the 95" kit. I already have a Zippers maxflow air cleaner, cycle shack slip-ons (going to V&H pro pipe), and V&H fulepak. I'd like to know if I can upgrade cams without going to 95? I'd really like to do the 95 kit with cams and headwork, but funds will definetly NOT allow this anytime soon. So if it is possible, who makes some good cams for the 88, and will it make enough of a difference to be worth the money and work?
I also know that my fuelpak is not the most respected fueler on here, and will probably not work with a cam upgrade, so that would be on the list of upgrades too, possibly to the PCIII.
Thanks for any help you can offer!
I also know that my fuelpak is not the most respected fueler on here, and will probably not work with a cam upgrade, so that would be on the list of upgrades too, possibly to the PCIII.
Thanks for any help you can offer!
#3
Unless of course your motor is in dire need of work which it sounds like it isn't from what you are saying
#4
#5
You would be fine with just a cam swap. Woods,Andrews,Fueling or S&S. Depending on where you want your power. The slip ons would be good for low end. You might want to consider the camchain conversion at this point. You might not be able to go with the gear driven cams because of run out. The new camchain conversion would be a good way out.
#6
If you just do the cam swap it will probably run you around $275 to $350 for just the cams, gaskets and incidental materials ... another $125 if you do adjustable pushrods ... and another $400 or so if you swap out the cam support plate for the SE billet cam plate and high volume oil pump (this would allow you to convert from the 'silent chain' to the later 'roller chain' as mentioned in an earlier post) ....
Depends on how many miles your bike has ... BUT, if you decide not to convert to roller chain or gear drive cams ... you might need to replace your cam chain tensioner shoes ... that'll run another $85 for the pair (inner and outer) ... if you get them from Zanotti (otherwise could be up to $130 ... $65 ea.)
You might want to get the cam chain tensioner tool to relieve the pressure on the chains (I recommend it) ... $35 from Zanotti ... and you'll need to have, or have access to a hydraulic press to press the cams out of the cam support plate ... also will need to have a tool (might be able to borrow one from Auto Zone) for pulling the inner bearings out (and pressing them in) if you decide to replace the stock inner bearings with the Torrington bearings ....
Prices mentioned are approximate and assume you're able to find best discounted prices (from Zanotti or Chicago HD, for example) ....
I don't think you would necessarily need to replace the Fuel Pak ... it could probably be tuned to run alright with your cams ....
Depending on what your riding style is, I'd stick to something rather mild ... if you really want to be able to notice it, get one that will take effect around 2000 RPM .... there is a great table comparing cams at the Nightrider website ... http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/d...erCamSpecs.pdf ....
If you are considering going big bore, a lot of times dealerships run a winter special where they discount big bore installs ... if you do a 'stage' it will usually include cam install as well .... sometimes you can find specials for $1,500 or less for a 95 with cams ....
With converting to gear drive, you are looking at approximately an incremental ~$500 ... although, you can dispense with the cam chain tensioner shoes and special tool, etc ....
Just thought I'd post a few thoughts on the subject if you're thinking of doing it yourself ... it took me most of a day to do it .... Alternatively, I seem to remember the labor quote being about $550 for a cam install job .... Then you would still be looking at the same prices for cams, gaskets, (cam plate if you decide to swap to roller), push rods, etc ....
R/
'Chop
Depends on how many miles your bike has ... BUT, if you decide not to convert to roller chain or gear drive cams ... you might need to replace your cam chain tensioner shoes ... that'll run another $85 for the pair (inner and outer) ... if you get them from Zanotti (otherwise could be up to $130 ... $65 ea.)
You might want to get the cam chain tensioner tool to relieve the pressure on the chains (I recommend it) ... $35 from Zanotti ... and you'll need to have, or have access to a hydraulic press to press the cams out of the cam support plate ... also will need to have a tool (might be able to borrow one from Auto Zone) for pulling the inner bearings out (and pressing them in) if you decide to replace the stock inner bearings with the Torrington bearings ....
Prices mentioned are approximate and assume you're able to find best discounted prices (from Zanotti or Chicago HD, for example) ....
I don't think you would necessarily need to replace the Fuel Pak ... it could probably be tuned to run alright with your cams ....
Depending on what your riding style is, I'd stick to something rather mild ... if you really want to be able to notice it, get one that will take effect around 2000 RPM .... there is a great table comparing cams at the Nightrider website ... http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/d...erCamSpecs.pdf ....
If you are considering going big bore, a lot of times dealerships run a winter special where they discount big bore installs ... if you do a 'stage' it will usually include cam install as well .... sometimes you can find specials for $1,500 or less for a 95 with cams ....
With converting to gear drive, you are looking at approximately an incremental ~$500 ... although, you can dispense with the cam chain tensioner shoes and special tool, etc ....
Just thought I'd post a few thoughts on the subject if you're thinking of doing it yourself ... it took me most of a day to do it .... Alternatively, I seem to remember the labor quote being about $550 for a cam install job .... Then you would still be looking at the same prices for cams, gaskets, (cam plate if you decide to swap to roller), push rods, etc ....
R/
'Chop
#7
Thanks a bunch surfor, this was exactly what I needed to hear! So dealers will have winter discounts for a 95 install with cams for around $1500? I may hold off for this then, I was expecting much more! I'm a pretty aggressive rider, and I'd like to go as aggressive I can go while still maintaining reliability. I'm fairly new to harleys, coming from dirt bikes, muscle cars, and desert offroading, so I'm pretty liberal with the throttle and like lots of power. Btw the bike has just under 9k on the ticker...
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#8
#9
Thanks a bunch surfor, this was exactly what I needed to hear! So dealers will have winter discounts for a 95 install with cams for around $1500? I may hold off for this then, I was expecting much more! I'm a pretty aggressive rider, and I'd like to go as aggressive I can go while still maintaining reliability. I'm fairly new to harleys, coming from dirt bikes, muscle cars, and desert offroading, so I'm pretty liberal with the throttle and like lots of power. Btw the bike has just under 9k on the ticker...
If you search, you might find some examples of the types of deals some of the others on the forum have gotten in the past ....
My recollection is that there is some pretty deep discounting going on at some of the dealers, though, during the winter months ....
* * *
Having recently done a cam swap personally, I will say that those prices are very realistic ....
Last edited by SURFOR Chop; 09-18-2010 at 12:10 PM.
#10
Well ... may not be too far off, after all ... see this thread ....
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...r-no-deal.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...r-no-deal.html