I'm noticing lots of aftermarket devices available to trick the ECM into running the fuel at 13.8 instead of the closed loop 14.6. My question is can I run a 13.8 open loop cal on my 2008 WG. I think M6 cals. The reason being is to bring the temperature of the engine and exhaust down. I know I can increase my Bias table voltage up to about 820mv and that will get me to about 13.9 and still be in closed loop. Any suggestions here would be helpful.

Thanks!

 

Open loop you can set your AFR target to whatever you want.

 

I was just wondering if the Narrow band O2 sensors create any trouble with that.

 

The O2 sensors are not used in open loop, just the maps and the other sensors. So it works the same as other aftermarket open loop systems.

You use VTune to calibrate your VEs so the ECU should hit closer to the target, however, but you need a sniffer to verify that.

I don't think you will feel any heat or power difference between 13.8 and 13.9. Dyno numbers may be different.

 

My goal was to reduce the heat from the 14.6 to 13.8. That should drop me about 60-80degrees.

 

Don't you vtune using 14.6 (closed loop) so the system uses the o2 sensors, then after it's tuned the system runs in open loop to meet that target afr of whatever you set?

 

To answer your question, without getting too technical, you should not set the CLB to 820 in closed loop. The closed loop fuel control will not function correctly with the CLB THAT HIGH!

As others have said, you could allow the "learn" protion of the MASTER TUNE adjust your VE's. Then run in open loop with a command A/F of 13.8.

My advice, would be you do not need 13.8 A.F just to cool the engine.
Tweaking the CLB to 700 or 720 would still be enough to cool without being too rich which cruising! ( And that solution would allow C/L fueling to remain operational. )
That's my 2cents..

 

You can do it that way if you choose, but most (after the VTune sessions) run closed loop in most of the map regions, like cruising. The CLB offset that you set will force the ECU, in the end, to run the bike a bit richer than the stock maps, just enough to run cooler but also provide good mpg and drivability. The WOT, throttle transition, or idle sections of the map are the open loop regions where you want to target AFRs that are outside the O2 sensor range. The tuning guide and base maps offer default suggestions, but you are free to tinker with them as you wish. Because you Vtuned to calibrate the VEs, the ECU will actually hit closer to the target you set than canned maps. And because most of the adjustments the ECU makes to maintain the closed loop AFR from tank to tank carry over to open loop, the open loop targets continue to be hit fairly close from tank to tank.

When I set the CLBs close to 800 I had lots of soot build up in the exhaust, obviously running plenty rich. I found a happy medium for my bike with a 700 CLB.

You can also adjust timing in a similar way, but VTune won't help you there. You basically advance timing and use data master to record ping sensor events and back off timing in those areas where pings are detected.

 

Thanks for all the inputs. Looking at the O2 calculator I would need to adjust the CLB to 785mv just to reach 14.4 afr. Is there much difference between 14.6 and 14.4 in terms of heat? Also, looking at the aftermarket devices, all are shooting towards 13.8 of less. Someone mentioned soot in the tail pipe, would this really happen? So from what I gather, I can calibrate my VE tables and use AFR values In a similar M6 calibration which all were open loop and I should get a richer and cooler running bike.

 

Here's a product that brings AFR to 13.8 or so.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...2040865858655#