Front Bounce
#21
09-03-2010, 10:27 PM
Joe, no, nothing happens if I just use the rear brake. I rode it after my last post and noticed that when it was cold I could barely feel anything, but as I rode around a bit it seemed to get a bit worse. Not terrible, just a bit worse. I have a 300 mile ride to do tomorrow, will see how it acts. I think Grendel may be right and I should eliminate the rotor as the problem. I am not sure how the shop figured out there was no run out on the rotor without the bike, and why I will bring the whole bike back to them and just have them ride it to feel what I feel. Soooo frustrating.
#22
09-04-2010, 12:48 AM
Pulse in brake
The same thing happens on mid 70s Triumph discs. They took perfectly fine cast iron discs and hard chrome plated them (no ****) to that they wouldn't rust. The chrome wears off in areas on the disc, leaving some in place. The coeffecient of friction changes significantly as the rotor spins, grabbing then slipping. Maybe your rotor has slick spots. Part of the alloy. Only way I can think of is to change the rotor to something else, different manufacturer.
Discs can be resurfaced by Blanchard grinding. Not for floaters, unless you can disassemble them.
Blasting all the chrome off the Tri. discs improves the braking by at least thirty percent.
Discs can be resurfaced by Blanchard grinding. Not for floaters, unless you can disassemble them.
Blasting all the chrome off the Tri. discs improves the braking by at least thirty percent.
#23
09-04-2010, 06:30 AM
#24
09-09-2010, 07:03 PM
#25
09-11-2010, 09:50 AM
+1 on beveled edge
I had a problem like this on a ducati I own.
Right after I changed the pads, everything was great. A few days later I began to feel a rapid shuddering at the lever.
This only seemed to happen after breaking moderately to hard and then easing my grip as I got near to stopping (5 or so mph) and then trailing the brakes before coming to a stop (like before a stop light or when slowing or stopping before making a left turn).
I bled the brakes, checked run out on the wheel and the rotors, checked the torque on all the caliper bolts, checked the lines, the pins, etc, etc. I was going crazy over it.
A friend suggested I re-bed the brakes. So, I went through the process...
Accelerate to 60mph.
Brake hard and steady until 5-10mph.
DO NOT come to a complete stop as this can transfer material onto the hot rotor from the pads.
Repeat the process 3-5 times.
Stop (without using the new pads) and let the rotors cool.
Check the rotors for some color change (might blue a little, that's good).
Check for dust, etc (that is good too).
Repeat until satisfied or until the brakes work as you'd like.
The other thing to do is pull the pads and hit them with some sand paper. Also, bevel the leading edge of the pads as well.
Right after I changed the pads, everything was great. A few days later I began to feel a rapid shuddering at the lever.
This only seemed to happen after breaking moderately to hard and then easing my grip as I got near to stopping (5 or so mph) and then trailing the brakes before coming to a stop (like before a stop light or when slowing or stopping before making a left turn).
I bled the brakes, checked run out on the wheel and the rotors, checked the torque on all the caliper bolts, checked the lines, the pins, etc, etc. I was going crazy over it.
A friend suggested I re-bed the brakes. So, I went through the process...
Accelerate to 60mph.
Brake hard and steady until 5-10mph.
DO NOT come to a complete stop as this can transfer material onto the hot rotor from the pads.
Repeat the process 3-5 times.
Stop (without using the new pads) and let the rotors cool.
Check the rotors for some color change (might blue a little, that's good).
Check for dust, etc (that is good too).
Repeat until satisfied or until the brakes work as you'd like.
The other thing to do is pull the pads and hit them with some sand paper. Also, bevel the leading edge of the pads as well.
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