Tips for turn signal relocation kit
#1
Tips for turn signal relocation kit
I just did the turn signal relocation kit to facilitate my detachable sideplates. The kit was supposed to be easy but it was a PITA! Things I found:
1) the center bore of the bolt for the turnsignal is too small for both wires. Crude casting inside makes it all but impossible to pass the wires through.
2) after splicing the wires they are too tight to be held in the retaining clips under the fender.
3)The kit with supplied hardware does not torque down enough on fender rail making a flimsy connection for the sideplate
Here is what I did
1) Clamped flat portion of TS stem in vise and counterbored it to smoothen and very slightly widen the channel. Use some pneumatic oil or other lubricant to prevent drill bit from binding.
2) I took a black and a blue 18ga "jumper wire" about 5" long and used that to re-connect where the wires were cut. I soldered and heat shrink wrapped the connections after slipping some soft conduit over the wire past the solder points. The conduit holds tightly in the wire retaining clamps on the fender and provides extra abbrasion protection.
3) A flat washer between the stem and fender bracket was enough to give a nice tight joint and made the sideplate hardware line up securely.
I found all of this out while doing the left side and had to keep backstepping to cure said problems. the right side went all of 20 minutes and the wireing is nice and secure under the fender.
Just a heads up to those who are going to do this kit.
1) the center bore of the bolt for the turnsignal is too small for both wires. Crude casting inside makes it all but impossible to pass the wires through.
2) after splicing the wires they are too tight to be held in the retaining clips under the fender.
3)The kit with supplied hardware does not torque down enough on fender rail making a flimsy connection for the sideplate
Here is what I did
1) Clamped flat portion of TS stem in vise and counterbored it to smoothen and very slightly widen the channel. Use some pneumatic oil or other lubricant to prevent drill bit from binding.
2) I took a black and a blue 18ga "jumper wire" about 5" long and used that to re-connect where the wires were cut. I soldered and heat shrink wrapped the connections after slipping some soft conduit over the wire past the solder points. The conduit holds tightly in the wire retaining clamps on the fender and provides extra abbrasion protection.
3) A flat washer between the stem and fender bracket was enough to give a nice tight joint and made the sideplate hardware line up securely.
I found all of this out while doing the left side and had to keep backstepping to cure said problems. the right side went all of 20 minutes and the wireing is nice and secure under the fender.
Just a heads up to those who are going to do this kit.
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nxtlevl007
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08-10-2016 12:01 PM