Thinking of a Stage 1 on my 2010 WG
#1
08-25-2010, 03:52 PM
Thinking of a Stage 1 on my 2010 WG
I am thinking of SE slipons, SERT and Big Sucker or SE air cleaner. I know the SE air cleaner costs more but I like the looks of the new one.
Dealer says they have a database of downloads for the SERT running this config and can get pretty close without Dyno. Later next year I would do cams with a full dyno.
I would do a PC5, but don't want warranty issues where if dealer does this I won't have to worry about it.
Will this make anything like the standard stage 1 performance increases and other benefits?
Thanks,
Dealer says they have a database of downloads for the SERT running this config and can get pretty close without Dyno. Later next year I would do cams with a full dyno.
I would do a PC5, but don't want warranty issues where if dealer does this I won't have to worry about it.
Will this make anything like the standard stage 1 performance increases and other benefits?
Thanks,
#4
08-25-2010, 04:45 PM
+1 on the full exhaust system vs. slip ons. Slip ons will sound better but not really open up the outflow of air that would give you the full performance bump you are looking for. And since you state you plan on doing cams, seems like performance is your primary reason for the changes.
USMAMule
USMAMule
#5
08-25-2010, 05:05 PM
So, if I go full system the straight pipes I have read kill your performance and the 2-1 systems improve it. Still haven't gotten the best feeling for 2-1's yet so would be open to some recommendations. D&D Fat Cat is about the only one I have seen so far that I like. Anybody else have WG's with 2-1's on them?
If I did full exhaust I would like to do the Big Radius 2 into 2, but does this block access to the dip stick? I need easy access to check my oil, I am pretty religious about checking it.
If I did full exhaust I would like to do the Big Radius 2 into 2, but does this block access to the dip stick? I need easy access to check my oil, I am pretty religious about checking it.
Last edited by tully_mars; 08-25-2010 at 05:16 PM.
#6
08-25-2010, 06:19 PM
Many good tuners will tell you, on late model bikes, to stick with the stock head pipes and use slip ons if you want the best street performance and sound. Don't waste your money on a full exhaust system unless you are going for style (style is not a waste of cash). If you are going for style just pick the ones that look and sound best to you. 2-1s can help bring back some low rpm torque but they generally have mid range holes. 2-2s make the most HP, good for showing off your dyno sheet at the bar.
There are less problems tuning a bike with stock headpipes as they and the ECU are tuned as a unit and the O2 units are placed optimally. In these days of inconsistent fuel, you want to be running closed loop.
It is an old wives tale that full systems add much if any street performance, in fact many full systems have holes or kill performance in some rpm ranges. If you are bar stool racing and only want to show max HP numbers, then its a different story, use a 2-2 without baffles, longer the better. The difference in 2-2 numbers are within the error of dyno readings.
Investing the cash into a proper tune will pay back more in performance and riding satisfaction than any hardware unless you are riding to pose. If you go to a much larger displacement engine, you may want to think about a different exhaust but cams are not a factor. The tune is the story. With all the marketing claims of performance increases, you will see in the fine print that the bike was tuned and that there is the secret.
I would also suggest you look at the TTS tuning kit, especially if you are a DIYer and can use sweat equity. Use the cash you save on coffee. Dealers like to scare you with warrantee issues, but if you want to spending that kind of money on performance, why not put it to best use.
In the days of carbs and just a few years ago it may have been a different story.
Oh as far as free flow air filters, you have to spend over $600 for one of those dual inlet forward ram unit to see any difference in power, so a free flow in the style you like is perfectly fine.
There are less problems tuning a bike with stock headpipes as they and the ECU are tuned as a unit and the O2 units are placed optimally. In these days of inconsistent fuel, you want to be running closed loop.
It is an old wives tale that full systems add much if any street performance, in fact many full systems have holes or kill performance in some rpm ranges. If you are bar stool racing and only want to show max HP numbers, then its a different story, use a 2-2 without baffles, longer the better. The difference in 2-2 numbers are within the error of dyno readings.
Investing the cash into a proper tune will pay back more in performance and riding satisfaction than any hardware unless you are riding to pose. If you go to a much larger displacement engine, you may want to think about a different exhaust but cams are not a factor. The tune is the story. With all the marketing claims of performance increases, you will see in the fine print that the bike was tuned and that there is the secret.
I would also suggest you look at the TTS tuning kit, especially if you are a DIYer and can use sweat equity. Use the cash you save on coffee. Dealers like to scare you with warrantee issues, but if you want to spending that kind of money on performance, why not put it to best use.
In the days of carbs and just a few years ago it may have been a different story.
Oh as far as free flow air filters, you have to spend over $600 for one of those dual inlet forward ram unit to see any difference in power, so a free flow in the style you like is perfectly fine.
Last edited by ColdCase; 08-25-2010 at 06:34 PM.
#7
08-25-2010, 07:08 PM
So, which cam would be better? I don't want to get to drastic on cams, just a bolt in. I am thinking I would go with the SE204 or the SE255. The 255 seems to have more top end and I know is popular in the Touring bikes. If it helps those heavy bikes it should really help a Dyna.
But I have read the 204 is really underrated I have heard also and great on Dynas.
If I do the SE slip-ons, I can put the money forward and may just go ahead and get the cams all at once.
But I have read the 204 is really underrated I have heard also and great on Dynas.
If I do the SE slip-ons, I can put the money forward and may just go ahead and get the cams all at once.
Last edited by tully_mars; 08-25-2010 at 07:41 PM.
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#8
08-25-2010, 09:21 PM
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Many good tuners will tell you, on late model bikes, to stick with the stock head pipes and use slip ons if you want the best street performance and sound. Don't waste your money on a full exhaust system unless you are going for style (style is not a waste of cash). If you are going for style just pick the ones that look and sound best to you. 2-1s can help bring back some low rpm torque but they generally have mid range holes. 2-2s make the most HP, good for showing off your dyno sheet at the bar.
There are less problems tuning a bike with stock headpipes as they and the ECU are tuned as a unit and the O2 units are placed optimally. In these days of inconsistent fuel, you want to be running closed loop.
It is an old wives tale that full systems add much if any street performance, in fact many full systems have holes or kill performance in some rpm ranges. If you are bar stool racing and only want to show max HP numbers, then its a different story, use a 2-2 without baffles, longer the better. The difference in 2-2 numbers are within the error of dyno readings.
Investing the cash into a proper tune will pay back more in performance and riding satisfaction than any hardware unless you are riding to pose. If you go to a much larger displacement engine, you may want to think about a different exhaust but cams are not a factor. The tune is the story. With all the marketing claims of performance increases, you will see in the fine print that the bike was tuned and that there is the secret.
I would also suggest you look at the TTS tuning kit, especially if you are a DIYer and can use sweat equity. Use the cash you save on coffee. Dealers like to scare you with warrantee issues, but if you want to spending that kind of money on performance, why not put it to best use.
In the days of carbs and just a few years ago it may have been a different story.
Oh as far as free flow air filters, you have to spend over $600 for one of those dual inlet forward ram unit to see any difference in power, so a free flow in the style you like is perfectly fine.
There are less problems tuning a bike with stock headpipes as they and the ECU are tuned as a unit and the O2 units are placed optimally. In these days of inconsistent fuel, you want to be running closed loop.
It is an old wives tale that full systems add much if any street performance, in fact many full systems have holes or kill performance in some rpm ranges. If you are bar stool racing and only want to show max HP numbers, then its a different story, use a 2-2 without baffles, longer the better. The difference in 2-2 numbers are within the error of dyno readings.
Investing the cash into a proper tune will pay back more in performance and riding satisfaction than any hardware unless you are riding to pose. If you go to a much larger displacement engine, you may want to think about a different exhaust but cams are not a factor. The tune is the story. With all the marketing claims of performance increases, you will see in the fine print that the bike was tuned and that there is the secret.
I would also suggest you look at the TTS tuning kit, especially if you are a DIYer and can use sweat equity. Use the cash you save on coffee. Dealers like to scare you with warrantee issues, but if you want to spending that kind of money on performance, why not put it to best use.
In the days of carbs and just a few years ago it may have been a different story.
Oh as far as free flow air filters, you have to spend over $600 for one of those dual inlet forward ram unit to see any difference in power, so a free flow in the style you like is perfectly fine.
Bones
#9
08-25-2010, 10:13 PM
I think everything said here is fundamentally correct but you have to ask yourself exactly what are you trying to accomplish with your bike. For me it was more of just enjoying changing the appearance, sound and performance in that order. When I ordered my pipes I really didn't care if I was going to max out hp for dollar invested. I mostly wanted to change the look and sound first and then worry about performance. After pipes, and air cleaner I installed a PCV to make sure I wouldn't run the motor too lean and that was it as far as performance. I then removed stuff I didn't like and lowered the bars, added the bags and will soon install an oil cooler and lower seat. I just like messing around with the bike, personalizing it and if I can improve the performance then all the better. I don't ride it that hard anyway and generally stay well within the speed limits. Have fun in whatever approach you decide on, thats whats important to me.
