Mud, I checked the gap earlier. it's 10mm. Pretty darn large.

This whole thing just doesn't make sense. How are these bikes assembled at the factory without these issues yet they pop-up attempting to do a basic repair (isolator) and upgrade (true track).

The new isolator isn't narrower than the old one. Dimensions are similar.

I'm done working on it today. Clear my head. I'll attack it again tomorrow. I'm going to enjoy a cold one now.

Appreciate everyone's input. Thanks.

 

Along the line of what mud was saying, it seems like the isolators should be installed with TT completely disconnected; then TT can be hooked up, knowing that it didn't interfere w/ getting the engine mounts right, first.

 

Lo-rider, that was the first thing I did and the motor mount wasn't anywhere near close enough to be able to bolt it up. I followed the service manual and bolted the isolator up to the frame, then lowered the motor into the top of the isolator. There are pics posted in reply #34: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/7243929-post34.html

 

When installing the TT you have to remove the mount bolts, aligning them first is just redundant. The same thing can be accomplished by simply removing the link from one end.
CB

 

There are 2 other stabilizers that neeed to be loosened up, Vic.
The one i wonder about (and on my scoot too ) is the top one, the stock HD mount.
The manual says to leave them all loose, run for a bit, and then tighten them all.
Maybe something to consider?
Or not

Hope it gets easier today for ya.

 

Yeah, that one has been on my mind. The more I think about it, the more should at least give it a try. Could it get any worse than what it is? lol (rhetorical).

I did loosen up the front and rear and run the motor. I didn't loosen the top. I do remember reading the vehicle alignment procedure mentioning loosening all mounts (including the top). I did figure that having the f/r mounts loose, the top would act like a pivot and allow the motor to (theoretically) swing into place. Guess it doesn't work like that.

 

In the attached picture it looks like the front frame bracket is either bent or tapered just above the mounting holes. Is it possible that you have the whole thing flipped around? Have you tried flipping to the other way to see if it lines up better.

 

That's what I meant by "disconnected"; TT should not be applying any external forces when setting up isolator shims.

 

So, I contacted TT tech support about this. mentioned I changed front isolator. Was asked if I also changed the rear. No. Was told that if the front was bad, the rear was probably bad too and that they usually change isolators in pairs.

That's info I could have used when I visited the dealer recently for a replacement front isolator. You'd hope that the parts person would know that sort of thing. Ok, so I'm trying to give the parts person more credit and smarts than they usually actually have.

 

No. You're trying to deflect part of the shame on the parts guy.