I have a 2010 Dyna Super Glide Custom and would like to replace the stock headlight with a chrome headlight. My question is, do you have to remove the tank to get access to the wiring or can I just remove the instrument panel?

Also, any good suggestions for nice reasonably priced chrome headlights?

 

The plug is in the neck of the frame but if go with a after market light you will probally just splice it in.

I run the Cobra ll 5 3/4 headlight. It us $99 shipped from eastern performance.

 

ya, you dont need to remove the tank, just remove the front and rear bolts them slide it back just enough to expose the holes that the neck cover snaps into - then you can fish around in there till you find the right connector.

WHat seat is that with the backrest?

 

Thank you for the info.

The seat is a Mustang Vintage Wide. I have just recently removed the passenger portion of the seat the sissy bar and luggage rack and replaced them with a Motherwell fender rack and a lay back license plate to the bike.

Really like the new look, but sure miss the space to carry things.

 

I did buy the Cobra II headlight from Eastern Supply, looks great, but a little confused about the wiring.

It came with only 2 wires 1 red 1 yellow. When I check the Harley wiring diagram it shows 3 Black ground, white High, yellow low.

I called Eastern and they told me the light was internally grounded, just tape off the black wire on my original wiring. Is that correct?

Also, they could note tell me which of their wires, red/yellow were the high or low.

Could anyone please give me some info on the wiring connection to install this light?

 

I just installed the same light last week. There telling you right. The black is just cut off and the other two wires connect to the oposite color. If I remember right it's red to yellow. Just twist them together and then turn on your key and check the headlight while flipping the hi low button. If it works then their right. I just pulled about 6 to 8 inch of wire from inside the neck and went to splicing, then cram it all back into the neck. Nothning to it. They pack a whole lot of extra wire into that neck, just pull on it and you"ll see. I'll post some pictures of my new headlight soon.

 

I just replaced my headlight with a bullet style lamp. I also had the 2 wire setup, with the ground attached to the housing. What I did was remove the plug and wires from the new housing and ran my stock headlamp wiring into it to keep from altering the stock harness. Only took bout 15-20 minutes to replace the lamp, disconnect and fish the wires thru and reconnect.

 

I just got my Billet/Bullet 5 3/4 Headlight from Zanotti's last night.

Looking at the neck of the frame where the headlight and turn signal wires go into, there is a rather large rubber grommet that appears to be easily accessible without moving the tank one way or the other.

In my Service Manual, all it says on replacing the light on page 7-28 is 'loosen fuel tank to gain access to the headlamp harness connector (13) see 4.6 FUEL TANK.'

It doesn't say why I should loosen the Fuel Tank other than to gain access to the connector. And the rubber grommet covering the hole in the frame appears to be readily accessible without doing so.

The Service Manual quotes are VERBATIM. Looking at it as I type.

So then I goes to page 7-61, 'Main Wiring Harness' where it sez, "The Main Wiring Harness is routed through the frame backbone and has enough slack designed into it so that it can be pulled out of the front end of the backbone to access the connectors inside the frame."


Now, on the instructions that came with the light, it says to REMOVE the fuel tank to gain access to a shield underneath the frame so you can snag the little connector bugger from underneath.

Maybe I should just remove the engine, transmission and rear tire while I'm at it. Gotta make it easier to access a $2 connector, right?

1) Is it okay to pull reasonably hard on the headlight wire going into the frame backbone in order to extract it or do I really need to access the connector from underneath? (hope not because that would mean lifting the tank off the backbone)

2) Is the slack the Manual is talking about inside the frame or back under the seat?

3) If so, is that why the fuel tank should be loosened, so you can pull the wiring harness slack out the neck of the frame?

No, I'm not going to cut and splice the wiring unless I absolutely have to. Proably not even then.

An OBTW. When the light came in, it was rattling around inside the bucket. The inner ring had to be tightened down. I'm glad I did it while it was off the bike. Little bit of a PITA if you've never done it before. Like a lot of other things, once you've done it, you wonder why it was so difficult the first time.

Wrenches, nuts, bolts, engines, etc, I can handle. But yes, wiring intimidates me. I'm always afraid I'm going to break something.

Maybe because...... I usually do.

 

I did the same thing. The Harley connector is better quality (at least better than the one that came with my Cobra II headlight). I also ran the ground wire rather than relying on mechanical connection. Simple installation - hardest part was unscrewing the headlight bezel.

 

DONE!!

The SM and the HD Instruction Sheet can kiss my goat-smellin' ****.

Didn't touch the Fuel Tank, didn't have to slide it back, didn't loosen it, didn't remove it -- Nuttin. Didn't have to remove the lower shield under the backbone, didn't have to jack up the horn or shim the handlebars. Extremely straight forward.

There really is enough slack in the wiring to snake it out through the top of the frame nearest the front. Remove the rubber grommet (or whatever you call it), snake out the wire (which is kinda like trying to get one piece of spaghetti off a plate without disrupting all the others) and there's plenty of slack there. Plenty of slack. Just gotta be a little patient with it.

The worst part was trying to get the acorn nut that mounts the headlight to the Tall Mount started. Too many washers. I just eliminated one flat washer and used one flat washer and one lock washer. But that's not important. I think.

Looks good. Changes the look of the whole bike, IMO.