here is a vid with my scoot, same cams, but a 95 build on the motor... this was pre dyno so it sounds a touch diff.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRMj52a1nC4

 

I love how an engine sounds with a set of cams and high comp pistons. It just has that extra crispness in the idle and pops with authority. I likey...
As soon as I get my bike handling dialed in I am going for the 10.5 95 kit with 37 cams. I cant wait!! I may use S&S easy start chain drives havent settled that one in my mind yet.

 

I got my pipes reworked this afternoon ... got the heat shields and bracket for the muffler all together finally (will post up a pic later this evening) ....

So, I think the Auto-Tune feature of the Thunder Max ECM is doing its thing ... I had reloaded a different base map last night and took it out for a ride, but the speedo was going haywire ... when I got back, I checked the settings and the speedometer input setting was for a 2001-2003 Softail (4352 vice 40960 for Dyna) ...! Once I changed that setting everything was back to normal with the instrumentation ....

I notice it runs through the gears really quickly, so I think it is taking less effort to spin up to highway speeds ....

With the T-Max, it limits the amount by which it adjusts the program by not more than 5% each separate run ... so after riding in this morning and taking it to the exhaust shop at noon and riding it back this afternoon, I can tell a big difference ... much improved ... better throttle response ....

Will be biding my time (not happily) until I get the heads and throttle body replaced ....

 

you have the pully in your bike right? first gear goes by really fast on mine... but it really starts pulling in 2nd

 

...and you seemed worried right after the install. lol

Told you it'd work out once you tuned it. Feels like a different bike now, doesn't it?

 

Joe: No power pulley ... but the '05 were geared a little lower than '06 Dynas were stock ...

Vic: Yeah ... but with good reason after a scare with that CKP sensor going out on me ... also, took a while to get the pipe situated and the EFI tuned in ... I am really pleased now ...

Time to turn my attention back to tuning my front suspension, now ....

R/
'Chop

 

Joe your bike sounds pretty fugin killer!

 

I'm not getting the part where you say you have to find top dead center of each cylinder to do a camswap.

You don't need to find TDC of any cylinder to do a cam swap.

All you do is line up the camshaft phasing dots, Harley's have been that way since the 1930's.

 

I seem to recall seeing several things to the contrary ... first search I saw to that effect below ....

"1. To remove stock pushrods which will not be reused, remove pushrod cover clips, collapse pushrod covers, place motorcycle in gear, and rotate engine to place lifters and pushrods for either cylinder at lowest point on camshaft. Piston for same cylinder will be at TDC on Compression stroke and pushrods will spin with light finger pressure."

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hdtccaminstall00.htm

 

To adjust pushrods, yes, that is one way to do it. Most mechanics usually rotate the engine so that if one cylinders pushrod/lifter (example front exhaust) is all the way up, or open, you adjust the opposite cylinders pushrod (in the case, rear exhaust) as it is fully closed. Do the same for all 4.

No need to search for firing stroke TDC.