Here Lately my riding has been limited to back and forth to work mostly, about 14 miles each way, but most of the roads are fairly straight here, with slight hills.
Riding mostly four lane high way here and riding on the 110" it is hard not to twist the hell out of the throttle from time to time .
I intend on keeping up with the statistics on this tire as well and when it is time for a replacement I will post my review, along with all of measurements at different intervals, because my search for the perfect tire continues.

 

I had 3000 on my ND when I pulled it. I ride 2up a lot and it was half gone. Since I can't afford to keep doing this, I went darkside; I'll expect at least 30-35k on that. The rear brake is finally there; even in the rain, so I'm staying. The ND did corner well though, and I don't play around.

 

I am just a little skeptical about running a car tire on my bike, now 15 years ago, yes I would of, but now that I have a family I don't think I could, I didn't put motorcycle tires on the OL's SUV, but I can respect your decision to do so, and I will not knock you for it. BTW how does that flat threaded tire handle when you lean deep in a corner?

 

Outstanding. The only adaptation is the initial lean requiring a bit more countersteering pressure, but you don't notice it after a bit. Bikes ran CT's for 40 years and they came apart, blew up, had a lot of flats and other problems because they were basically nylon wound balloons. The radial performance tires we have today are almost bulletproof; no failures on record yet with thousands of bikes; mostly big cruisers. Except one guy running a runflat with no pressure and cooking it.
Half the tread stays flat on the ground when you lean; the softer rubber does the rest, like being on a rail.
I'll stop here as not to highjack the thread any worse.
If you're tirecurious:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...der-afaik.html
or
http://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/
or
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/softa...ght-train.html

 

Got to looking for a replacement for the OEM on my 08 FXDC. The original tire gave me7k and the direct replacement only gave me 6k. I did some looking at the Dunlop web site and found the D407/170 was only .23in shorter and .22 wider than the stock tire. I've got just over 1k on it now and am leaving on a 5k trip next week. I will let you guys know how its wearing as I go.

 

I thought Pirelli tires claim to fame was their stickum quality and not the hard long wear rubber most of us can be happy with. Performance tires today are made of a soft rubber designed to stick to the highway better then hard rubber/long wearing tires. I would love the Pirlli's myself but I certainly would not expect them to last longer then a hard rubber tire.

 

I wouldn't have expected it to be half gone at 3000 miles either. But no rear brake was why I went to it from the stock Dumlop and still had no rear brake. Yeah, they corner well, but I like to stop too.

 

FWIW, I have a little over 3300 miles on the ND tires and the front tire seems to be wearing a bit faster than the rear tire, but both have plenty of tread...I'm hoping to get 6-7K out of 'em before replacing. I had to replace the stock rear Dunlop at 8100 miles.

I've never had the rear lock up and I do alot of stop and go city riding with some hard stops for red lights.

Maybe a difference in tire pressures? I dunno... I DO run with higher tire pressures than I did with the stock Dunlops. 40 cold psi in the front and 45 cold psi in the rear riding solo...it works for me.

 

I must have gotten the one set if Dunlop's that everyone dreams about. I have a '10 Fat Bob and changed from the stick wheels/tires to the Stinger wheels/tires when the bike had 2700 miles on it. I'm around 17K now, and I've still got plenty of safe, usable tread on both front and rear. Color me lucky!