My caliber is leaking out of the bleeder valve. The pistons don't come out evenly and the brake is always dragging. I've had it off and cleaned the crap out of it, but still it doesn't work properly. I also think the plunger in the rear master isn't up to snuff.
Should I just buy a new caliper $160.00 or is it easier to rebuild the 1 I have? I'd need to buy the piston remover tool.
Maybe someone has a good working 1 they don't need and would like to sell me

 

Sure, I rebuilt mine on my 06 streetbob, it's easy, the back caliper requires more to come off though, you pretty much have to slide the axle out in order to get the clearance to replace and clean the components.
I think the kit was like 12bucks, it's only a pack of o rings, you can get the pistons too but they aren't cheap, and more than likely there is nothing wrong with yours. You don't need no special tool to remove the pistons either, you got a compressor? All I did was remove the calipers, drain em, remove the two bolts I believe that hold the calipers together, seperate em, remove the pads, flushed em in a bucket of 91 alcohol from wally world. Then take a rubber vise clamp you know the kind with the squeeze trigger (I'm tired man, worked all night can't remember the actual term for it), and hold down one of the pistons, then take your air hose put on a rubber tip air nozzle and plug one of the fluid ports and start putting air to it, you won't need a lot of pressure, and throw a towel over the piston because when it lets go, it's gonna let go, and if your eye ball is in the way, well so be it, haha. Take that same piston and put it back in the hole, only part way, then move the rubber jaw clamp to hold this piston in place, now repeat process to remove other piston, once that piston blows pull original piston out by hand. Remove orings with a toothpick not your dental pick or awl, you scratch or gauge this delicate area, you will be buying a new caliper, then resubmerse calipers in alcohol and take a brush and scrub the inner piston area out slosh it out real good, then install your kit, packing lube, packings, clean pistons back in grooves. You are suppose to torque those bolts, check your manual, I don't remember the torque off hand. Install fresh brake fluid in master cylinder and bleed the hell out of it, til no bubbles are coming from bleeder port. That's most of it in a nutshell, not difficult to do really.

 

Probably a good time also to put some new breaks on there if your gonna do this, I put new Lyndalls on mine, and even threw on some stainless hoses, figured while she was down for brakes, she's gonna get the whole enchilada.

 

sounds good. I used my compressor to push the pistons out when I cleaned it last week. I didnt want them all the way out so I used a spacer to hold them in a little. Is there a small oring under the bleeder valve too or is it just 1 large oring for every piston? I guess I could just reread the manual again. I wonder why my bleeder valve is leaking. It leaks out the hole not the threads. I'm thinking if that is the case my master cylinder must be working atleast.

 

I don't think there is one under the bleeder valve, I've never seen one of those go bad except for rounded off flats on the wrench flats, in that case I've replaced em or rusted threads, but you are saying it's coming from the hole itself. I think it's just an intereference type fit, you tighten it down and the hole machined in the screw lines up with a channel cut in the hole to allow ported fluid to come from the bottom seat, up the channel out the hole. You keep turning to tighten and the bottom blocks the hole. I would go ahead and take it out and clean it and the hole in case something (rust,deposit) is blocking the seat from sealing off. Inspect the bleeder screw, worst case scenario, replace the bleeder screw if you need to, you would just want to probably throw a thread gage on it to make sure and get the same pitch threads back in there. I believe there are 2 orings per cylinder.