Check the Amsoil website where they convert the H-D fork oil p/n to the Amsoil p/n - but, I believe the Dynas are 10W. I was planning on using Amsoil synthetic 10W fork oil.

 

I put in the progressive springs up front. I really like them, works great with the 418's in the rear. You can adjust the pvc spacer to lower or raise the front end. Not rocket science just go to home depot. If you put the stock springs beside the progressives, you can see the difference in quality. Like comparing apples to oranges.

 

OK, I looked it up. The Dyna shop manual calls for H-D Type "E," which crosses to Amsoil 'Shock Therapy 10W.'

flyscoal - I am not looking to raise or lower the front end. What is a good starting point for the PVC spacer length? How many times did you have to take off the fork nuts and adjust the length of the spacers? Where did you find a 1 3/8" socket for the nuts?

 

OK, So I have been looking at the fork blowup in my service manual,and no wonder these forks are so crappy. There isnt even any valving from the factory!! No wonder the emulators are so popular. Looks like I am gonna be buying the Race Tech kit complete with the valving setup or emulators as some call them.

 

flyscoal - I am not looking to raise or lower the front end. What is a good starting point for the PVC spacer length? How many times did you have to take off the fork nuts and adjust the length of the spacers? Where did you find a 1 3/8" socket for the nuts?[/QUOTE]

I don't remember the PVC length (ballpark 6") but when you take the cap off (just use a big crescent wrench and put a plastic bag over the nut so you don't scratch it) be very careful because the sh%t is under lots of pressure. I actually cut my hand pretty good when the stock steel spacer came flying out and I tried to apply pressure to the nut to keep everything from launching. Wear some leather gloves and make sure you aren't standing over a drain where you can loose something.

Once you have the stock spring and spacer out you can just compare it to the new spring length and cut an appropriate length of pvc. Progressive supplies the PVC spacer which you just install as is unless you want to lower the front end, you just cut it as required. This is a really easy job but PLEASE cover you bike with something thick that will protect it from flying fork nuts!!! I used Screamin Eagle Race oil, the thick stuff.

As a side note the nut was fairly easy to put back on because the progressive spring was designed to be softer at the top end and nice and firm at the bottom. Sounds worse than it is just do it and you will be happy.

 

Try going to Sears for the socket, that's where i got mine.

 

The big *** wrench you need is a 35mm - which of course in typical Harley fashion is a size that doesn't commonly come in any set and pretty much has to be special ordered (at lease around here) - I got a 35mm socket for a 3/4" driver from my brother-in-law who is a heavy duty mechanic; no idea where he got it though (tool truck probably) cuz I couldn't find one anywhere - Sears makes em but they are a special order..... you could always just put a rag on the nut (to keep it from getting scratched) and use a crescent wrench though; just be careful if you are not using a socket cuz it'll be harder to keep everything from flying out when you undo the caps. You definitely need to have the front end off the ground or the tension will be too much. There is no need for torque specs when you tighten em back up cuz they just bottom out.

I used the progressive drop-in kit so didn't have to change out the oil or anything; just pull the old springs and spacer and replace em with the ones that came in the kit. The spacer comes 3" for stock height; if you cut it to 2" you lower it an inch; if you cut it to 1" you lower it 2" and so on........ 15 minute job including putting the bike up on the lift and trimming the spacers. The ride is WAAAAY better than the stock setup. Steering is quicker and front end dive on braking is much improved. It is stiffer but what can you do?

 

I'm in the same queue! Like you Ohlins already on the rear, seems only natural....

 

Can I just measure oz or ml in a ratio rite cup (measuring cup) and just dump in the proper amount without measuring the height in the fork?? I dont want to buy a gauge for a job I will rarely do. I will be using the Race Tech valves and springs. I have heard forks need a slightly less amount with the emulators or valves installed...

 

You don't need to buy one, just make one out of a 1/8" dowel rod, or old car dipstick, or whatever, not sure if you can use the OZ method since you are changing springs, what do the spring instructions tell you? Do they give you a quantity or just tell you to measure?