I'm trying to gather everything up to replace the IPB. I'm also going to replace the stator/rotor with the welded one. This is my list so far;

p/n 60547-06 Primary Cover Gasket
p/n 34934-06 Inner Primary Gasket
p/n 63869-06 Tower Gasket
p/n 25416-99C Derby Cover Gasket
p/n 60678-85 Retaining Ring
p/n 786A Sealing Bolts 5ea
p/n 40356-06B Stator/Rotor (is this the right p/n for the welded version?)
p/n 1110-0018 Baker High Torque Inner Primary Bearing
primary fluid

I still need to get a ft. lb torque wrench and a primary drive locking tool. Is there anything else I need? I thought I read somewhere about an updated chain tensioner, should I look into replacing that?

This will be my first time tearing into the primary and I've been researching it a lot and feel pretty confident about it. I plan on taking the inner primary housing to the dealer to have them press out the bearing which they quoted me at a half hour for labor.

 

if you're going to change out the rotor, you'll need the 30017-07 stator to go with that rotor. The I.D. of that rotor is about .250" larger than the one you have so you need the larger stator. That is the right PN for the rotor. Also if in the future if you decide to go with the SE compensator that stator will work with it also.

 

Ok, p/n 40356-06B comes up in Zannotti's as stator & rotor kit for $200 and p/n 30017-07 comes up as stator assy 40 amp for $104. Would I need both of these? It seems like the kit would include that stator already.

 

If that is a kit then it will have the 30017-07 stator with it.

 

Please make sure when you do this there is a big c clip that goes in the primary cover, holding the bearing in seat, it has to be turned so the opening of the clip is aligned with the oil passage in the primary cover, if it's not the clip will block the bearing from getting proper oil, and bad things will happen. Either do this yourself with a set of race tools or physically tell em and watch the process, at the very very minimum, take a small inspection mirror with you, because once the seal is in you can't see the clip orientation except with a small mirror, and if it's not right, you will need them to redo the seal, but of course that will cost you another baker seal, which they don't stock so verify before they put seal in, clip is correct. It's spelled out in service manual as well, and don't ask how I know this painful ordeal, but I know.

 

I am starting to think that this may have been the problem with the bearings going out in the first place. If the snap ring isnt in the proper position from the factory then that could explain why they go bad in the first place. Mine went at 12k and was fixed under warrenty. Got another 25k since then and no problems yet.

 

tag this for future stator replacement

 

Can anyone confirm that this is the updated stator/rotor combo 40356-06B ???

 

If your bearing is singing to you, why not get H-D to do the job for you FREE!?!?! You've got an '06 with a known problem, and any of us that's contacted Milwaukee Customer Service has gotten ours replaced on H-D's dime...yes, even outside of warranty, and some of us multiple times...the problem isn't just the bearing/race, it's case alignment! No alignment dowels between IP and Tranny cases on the '06.

If you haven't already, read every post to my thread "Finally Good News, Inner Primary Bearing". I just added a note to it the other day, so you should be able to find it active in the top 5 or 6 pages of Dyna threads. I even got a free chrome inner primary case in the process; you prob'ly wouldn't want that with your black-out, but I did. Please read the thread!

 

Is HD going to give me the updated stator/rotor as well?? Its a known issue also. My IPB isnt currently bad. The IPB looked fine just less than 1500 miles ago when I installed my mids. I am just going install a new IPB when I update the stator / rotor combo which I dont want to fail on me when I am on a trip. If HD will cover that bill while doing the IPB update then I am all about it.