I have the true track and it help mine in the curves. Much better than it was without it

 

Is it a wobble or a wallow, does it feel as if the front wheel/bars are wobbling or do you feel as if the bike has a rubber band type feeling? Check fall away on the head set and adjust if necessary and check for wobble. Do one thing at a time to try and isolate it. If you think is feels more like a wallow then a true track or sputhe is a good fix, but you may want to make sure your suspension is set up sound first.
So you have had it lowered for about 2 months, how long after you lowered it did you notice the wobble? Did you lower the rear as well? It could be many things, but you definitely want to start with the last thing you did before you noticed the problem.
How much sag on the rear? How much travel do you have left on the rear shocks, are you riding on the stops? I would start with increasing the preload on the rear just to see if there is any improvement. I have experienced more wallow when the rear shocks are set with less preload.
How is the front fork action, soft or stiff? Is the Burley Fork kit a drop in kit? If so, this could be your problem as you have no real control on preload and I would move to a kit that uses lowering springs under the damper tube so you can actually set a proper preload. You could also try a heavier fork oil with the drop ins. If they do use the damper springs under the damper, again how is the fork action, lots of brake dive or Stiff? Check your sag, approx. 25mm, and adjust it with the proper spacer and preload and see if that improves the wobble.
CB

 

Whoa!

We can always find excuses to justify buying new bike stuff, especially if there is money to burn--a fool and his money are soon parted. And parts-changers might eventually happen upon a solution to a specific problem. But are you convinced that what you have done so far is 100% aligned/adjusted, chassis/suspension/steering? I am not.

I believe you have done a lot, so far, but have given up before finishing what you have started. Subtle differences in setup/alignment, chassis tuning could make or break your handling/wobble. Before introducing yet more changes, check all alignment/adjustments!

Don't wait until next winter to find out that wheels are out of true! You can check this yourself using a sharpie with each wheel just off the ground; check bearing play at that time, and if you have tens of thousands of miles on them, replace them.; check steering head adjustments.

Only once you have done these things should you consider adding/making additional changes.

 

There is no substitute for ensuring your bike is correctly aligned and in tip top condition. Then go buy a True-Track kit! I have them on both Dyna and Glide and they will transform your bike. Ignore the sceptics who have never ridden with one.

 

may be dumb question, but how do I check wheels to see if they are tru myself,above mentioned sharpe,?assuming you would put sharpie against tire in a fixed position and spin , then check for breaks in ink. but just guessing....

 

It sounds like your drop kit has amplified the inherent Dyna high speed lateral wobble.

There are so many things that can affect this; from your new rear "almost-strut" shocks to worn bushings in the rear fork, to a rear hub whose spoke holes are now egg-shaped from loose spokes, to tired - old motor mounts, to soft springs in the forks to steering head bearings giving up the ghost....it's really hard to diagnose what the problem is but................... I'll 'steer' you in a couple of directions to get you started:

Jack the bike up and put a crowsfoot or crowbar between the swingarm and the frame and give it a bump. Did it move? Did it move a little bit and in a uniform direction? Was it tight?

While you've got it on the jack just look at the rear hub and see if you can discern any subtle differences in the holes the spokes are going through.

While it's still on the jack crawl under it and 'look' at the motor mount. Does the rubber 'look' like it should? do you see a crack or any sign of deterioration?

What about your front end? With the bike back on the ground is that thing solid and smooth on compression or does it feel like it's low on oil or the springs struggling to rebound?

I'll check in 2morrow evening and see how you're doing.

 

I turn my shock preload 2 clicks and it made a big differance. Mine felt like the rear was moving in a fast curve.

 

With the wheel off the ground, and a pencil or sharpie stabilized by a block of wood...and held at a fixed position, slowly spin the tire with the point just touching the center of the tire; any side-to-side run-out will cause the line to be off-center of the tread pattern; this should be clearly visible as you spin the tire. Or, while spinning the tire, hold the sharpie/block just barely away from the side of the rim so that it touches only where there is a "high" spot. Either way, you can see if it is true; if the gap remains constant, the wheel is true. Also this is a good time to check the bearings.

 

check the rear swing arm bushings as well.Mine had a really bad wobble in curves,more of an oscillation,was a tiny amount of give in the swing arm bushings,replaced them and the shaft,problem solved.It's surprised how little play will do it,there should be none.

 

Same Issue here, for years actually.( constantly checking all the above advice for a solution)..have a 99 Dyna and did lower it with 11" Progressives and drop in front springs....sits even but totally amplified the issue ALL dyna's ( those that have been lowered anyway) share in the rear.....if you a bigger guy ( which i am not) you will help weigh this down and it is less noticeable ...if your under 200lbs then altering the geometry really messes you up in the curves.....TRUE Track seems to be the move i will make here....but if that doesn't do it......>i'm going back to stock lengths in the suspension!....if that doesnt work....i'm going back to a sportster!